TRIPPING WITH PHIL
Philip Andelman's Incredibly Infrequent Travel Newsletter™
A MID-WEEK JAUNT TO ROME
I know many people fantasize about Roman summer holidays, espadrilled and astride a Vespa, zipping from a lovely pasta lunch to Spritzs in a little piazza café, but the sad reality is summer is overrun by teaming hordes of ugly tourists that ruin your magical trip at every turn. I got the perfect solution…
I know many people fantasize about Roman summer holidays, espadrilled and astride a Vespa, zipping from a lovely pasta lunch to Spritzs in a little piazza café, but the sad reality is summer is overrun by teaming hordes of ugly tourists that ruin your magical trip at every turn.
I’d argue for going totally off-season and shooting down mid-week. Instead of planning a week-long holiday here, focus either on the Italian countryside or just somewhere else in Europe altogether where the concentration of ambulating assholes isn’t quite as dense, and then zip over to the capital for a Tuesday-Friday escapade, eschewing the Vatican and Coliseum for Villa Medici and the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana. It’s barely an hour flight from Paris, and airfares are under a hundred bucks from London.
HOTELS
The hotel scene in Rome is out of control. On a recent visit the only decent hotel offering for under a nine hundred dollars a night was the too-far-flung Soho House. Most hotels’ basic rooms hovered in the $1,200 range, and this was on a weekend in October. Another reason why I suggest mid-week in February as an alternative.
I would highly recommend looking into an Airbnb as there are no shortages of options, some truly palatial and a fraction of the cost. And honestly, if you are only coming for 2-3 days, you will be spending 90% of your time racing around town.
But if room service and a massage after a long day of walking is what you’re after, you’d be hard-pressed to find a spot as impeccably-appointed as the new Bulgari Hotel, just one block off the main thoroughfare which keeps it a convenient oasis of calm (it’s also a block from the river, allowing for beautiful evening strolls).
Another option—and a great spot to grab a drink—is the Locarno Hotel. But beware: the hotel side has two wings, one recently renovated, the other quaintly dilapidated. The new side feels like your average business hotel in Wichita but is also a fraction the price of the old-world style rooms. Your choice.
Lastly, the Hotel de Russie’s outdoor gardens and patio make for the most splendid breakfast option I’ve ever seen (and a great late-afternoon aperitivo) and the recently renovated rooms feel modern yet classic at once.
FOOD
Antico Forno Roscioli This should be your first stop and last stop when you touch down. Roscoli has 3-4 stores a block away from each other but the Forno (bakery) is where you want to head. Get a slice of their tomato pizza (Roman pizzas come in long strips that are hacked down to custom sizes by machete-wielding bakers). For something sweet the caprese chocolate almond cake will do the trick, as well as the ricotta and cherry tart.
Pizzarium Bonci Okay, your real first stop should be here as it’s in the middle of nowhere though surely en route from the airport to wherever you may be staying. This dude is the modern upstart, the disrupter of the centuries-old Roman pizza scene and his flavors are unorthodox but damn tasty.
Piperno The most beautiful dining room in Rome, hands down (cosy and elegant in the winter, while the outside is idyllic in warmer weather). An iconic classic in the old Jewish ghetto it weirdly doesn’t get overly busy. Don’t miss out on their fried artichokes to start, or the pasta vongole as a primi. Pure magic.
Da Enzo A more “local” place to eat in Trastevere, somewhat far from the maddening crowds, it’s super simple, classic Roman fare. A few recent articles have made it tougher to score a table but if you need to wait twenty minutes, after you put your name down head two blocks away to Biscottificio Artigiano Innocenti, a beautiful little bakery with great cookies.
Dal Bolognese The ultimate see-and-be-seen terrace come springtime, the name does not disappoint when it comes to the meat sauce or any of the other dishes. Still as great as it was sixty years ago.
Armando Al Pantheon This is Alice Waters’ favorite restaurant in town, just a half block away from the Pantheon. Get there early for dinner and walk through the stunning space when the crowds have thinned out, it’s one of the more remarkable structures in town.
Retrobottega If you’re in the mood for a restaurant that hasn’t been opened over 78 years, this is the spot. A revolving seasonal menu, a slightly more punk attitude, it’s the best of the new generation.
Santo Palato Arguably the best rigatoni carbonara in town…
La Casa Del Caffè Tazza D’oro This small standing-room-only coffee shop has THE GREATEST COFFEE DRINK YOU WILL EVER HAVE EVER. Their shakerato (ask for it sweetened) will put to shame any Frappuccino or pumpkin spice latte (or even another shakerato). It’s deceptively simple, a shot of espresso poured over ice, tossed in a 1950s-style milkshake blender, and then strained into a small shot glass. Even as I write this I realize that words don’t do it justice, and that I’m simply sounding like a crazy person, BUT IT IS THE GREATEST THING EVER. EVER EVER. Okay, that’s it.
Gilotti and Ciampini Blocks away from each other are the two best places for a gelato. Hard to choose a winner between the two but luckily you don’t have to, just go to both. If Gilotti has the riso flavor, take it, it’s like frozen rice pudding and pairs really well with caramel gelato.
SIGHTSEEING
The crowds of the Vatican and Colosseum can be overwhelming and ruin otherwise spiritual experiences. I suppose if you are the first one in in the morning it can be special but recently the Vatican has made their earliest summer visiting time slot 6am which is not exactly ideal. However, I can’t vouch for them, but I’ve been told that Carolina Vincenti and Francesca Corsi are two guides can arrange for a private tour.
Galleria Borghese My favorite space in the city, this museum is the perfect scale, you can walk through it all in less than an hour, and features all the greatest hits: some Caravaggios, plenty of stunning Bernini sculptures, and breathtaking ceiling frescoes.
If you only visit one church while in Rome, make it San Luigi dei Francesi, right in the center of town and boasting three exceptional Caravaggio paintings. Then again, the ceiling of the Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola is pretty impressive too.
Villa Medici This sleepy compound is home to the French Academy HQ. The shows are often uninteresting but the grounds make for a beautiful stroll, often in peaceful tranquility as few people bother venturing here.
Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana aka Fendi HQ Okay, this one is a bit random but it’s my favorite destination in town. Originally built as part of a Fascist World’s Fair that never took place during WWII, it went unfinished for decades and then only partially used until Fendi took it over ten years ago as their HQ. It is a temple of neo-classical architecture and draws a perfect line from the ancient Colosseum (a fun thing to do is drive past the Colosseum in the morning and then visit this in the afternoon to compare/contrast). You sadly can’t visit the interior (aside from the lobby which offers an awesome vending machine which sells a beautiful coffee-table book about the history of the space along with other Fendi tchotchkes), but there is plenty to marvel at on the outside. It’s a real shlep out of town (about a 25 minute taxi ride) but there are a few other Mussolini-era structures nearby also worth perusing, including the city’s planetarium and Palazzo dei Congressi (both of which are more impressive on the outside than inside).
SHOPPING
Hidden on Via Monserrato and reachable only by appointment is the coolest, most elegant tailor shop in town, Giuliva Heritage. This isn’t an old hunch-backed grandpa teetering around and mumbling nonsensically in Italian, but rather a dashing young husband-and-wife team that have no qualms collaborating with H&M or offering their non-bespoke wears at Le Bon Marche and Net-a-Porter. This is where you want to get your next tweed jacket, corduroy suit, or shawl-collared camel-haired coat.
On the same street but definitely open to the public is Delfina Delettrez’s beautifully whimsical jewelry store. The daughter of the Fendi family, she has exceptional taste and a great sense of humor, offering jewel-encrusted sterling silver ice cream cones alongside sleek, modern rings and bracelets.
And one final stop on the street, Chez Dede offers a mish-mash of chic canvas tote bags, vintage ashtrays, limited edition art prints, and so much more.
Schostal If custom-embroidered tartan pajamas are your jam, this spot is for you. And if it’s more your partner’s jam, let them off here while you cross the street and enjoy a scoop of gelato at Giolotti.
Gammarelli If you’ve ever wanted to dress like the Pope but were unsure where to begin, this place offers the most practical start: for over two hundred years they have been furnishing silk socks to local pontiffs. And let me tell you, Popes know socks.
Bomba A great spot for custom-made casual clothing (think cashmere loungewear jacket), it’s right around the corner from Dal Bolognese so book a table for lunch and stroll over for a fitting afterwards (they also have a few pieces of ready-to-wear and if you’re in luck, you’ll really be in luck!!!).
C.u.c.i.n.a If you’re looking for the right tools to replicate your favorite meals from this trip, be it a solid brass pasta extruder or simple wooden gnocchi board, this is the place for you.
OVER FIFTY REASONS WHY YOU SHOULD BOOK A TRIP TO MEXICO CITY IN THE NEXT SIX MINUTES
Mexico City just may be the greatest city in the world to visit. Exceptional food, beautiful strolls, unique shopping, wonderful art, it’s got it all….
When you think food capitals of the world your mind probably goes to Paris, New York, Rome, Copenhagen, and Tokyo. Well, your mind is wrong. Mexico City is the most fun your palate will ever have.
And where else can you hang out in Diego Rivera’s kitchen before sliding down the backside of a Dragon-shaped home, visit ancient pyramids in the morning and take in a James Turrell installation in the afternoon, throwing back mezcal all day and churros all night. It’s THE PERFECT CITY. Also, it’s the closest trip from the US that will make you feel a million miles from home without any jet lag in just a couple hours’ flight. So buckle up, let’s trip.
But first, a quick note about getting around…
I’d steer clear of local taxis while in Mexico City as a couple dear friends have had some unpleasant problems with them. Instead, rely on Uber, or better yet reach out to Rodrigo Martinez, an excellent driver, and book him for your entire stay. It’s a (very) small price to pay for the ultimate convenience. Beyond taking you around town, Rodrigo is a great translator, and incredibly safe driver. I’ve also never met anyone who takes greater pride in the maintenance of their vehicle. I couldn’t recommend him more. But a side note: if he is unavailable and offers you another driver, you may get stuck with someone who doesn’t speak English as some friends have. So make sure it’s Rodrigo, otherwise have your hotel arrange a car which may be a bit more expensive but still a good deal.
Rodrigo Martinez +521 5539757985
HOTELS
Small, intimate, and great design…
Casa 9 A stunning, tiny hotel (maybe only 10 rooms or less!) that feels right out of a West Village modernist townhouse profile in AD.
Ignacia Guest House Another beautiful smaller boutique option that feels more like an apartment than a hotel.
Two others that I don’t know personally but look incredible are Octavia House and Casa Polanco.
Big, fancy, and fully of amenities…
Ritz-Carlton The newest mega-tower hotel in town, if you want a gleaming, state-of-the-art business hotel, this is the one. The St. Regis is in need of a bit of an update at this point.
Four Seasons A more classical option,, it is designed in classic Mexican architecture. It’s a bit dusty but you get the 4 Seasons level of service and a damn good bar.
Diego Rivera Home
MUSEUMS
Museo Anahuacalli Not to be confused with Rivera’s home studio, this stunning museum space, inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright’s architecture, houses Rivera’s personal art collection along with a rotating series of contemporary shows.
Casa Wabi An architectural contemporary art space designed by Alberto Kalach, that has a Tadao-Ando-esque minimalist grandeur. It’s a bit out of the way but worth the trek! (PS. make sure to book tickets for the branch in CDMX and not Puerto Escondido!!).
Frida Kahlo’s Home Make sure to book tickets well in advance as it sells out quickly.
Diego Rivera’s Studio A fascinating quick visit, the studio’s principle space and adjacent bedrooms are restored to the way they were close to a hundred years ago, while another floor hosts temporary exhibits.
Cuadra San Cristóbal Don’t be fooled by the Casa Luis Barragán (decent) or the disappointing Giraldi House, you want to visit the stables this iconic Mexican architect designed just out of town. Get your hotel to organize it far in advance as it can be tricky to reserve, you may have to go through a third-party tour group but it is well-worth it. You can also reach out directly here.
Jumex CDMX’s version of MoMA, it’s a great space, has great shows though for the most part they are international ones that travel elsewhere (Baldessari, Warhol, etc…). So perhaps this shouldn’t be highest on your list. That said, there’s a lovely Eno brasserie outpost for a quick bite. It’s also adjacent to Carlos Slim’s Soumaya Museum which is fine for an instagram shot from the outside, but the collection is so bland it’s not worth five minutes on the inside.
Teotihuacán Pyramid Ruins Not as awe-inspiring as the pyramids found throughout the Yucatán Peninsula, they still make for a special morning visit, especially when running around with kids. Try to get here as early as possible. I think they open at 9am, show up at 8:45 so you can be the first to lay your eyes on the Pyramid of the Sun, before it’s cluttered by tourists huffing their way up. The best bet is to get a private driver to take you from town and wait for you as you race through the place. No need to visit the adjacent museum, the anthropological one in town is way better. You should try to be in and out of the pyramids by 10:30 so you can be back in town for lunch.
Museo Nacional De Antropología This is their Museum of Natural History. After visiting the pyramids it’s a wonderful opportunity to understand the various cultures and eras of indigenous people along with the art they created over centuries. The place is exceptionally well-laid out with the path taking you from interior exhibits to exterior gardens dotted with massive ruins. If you are short on time, you only need to do the entire ground floor and skip the second one.
LAGOALGO a new space in a modernist structure beside a lake in Chapultepec Park, features the best in contemporary artists alongside a little spot for a bite to eat.
Tetetlán
SHOPPING
Tetelán Housed in the former stables of a Barragán home and suspended over a glass floor that looks onto the natural lava rock beneath, it’s a lovely restaurant and a perfectly selected choice of contemporary homeware and clothing. Yes, it’s a bit out of the way but worth every minute to get there as the shopping was some of the best I found in the city.
Utilitario You wish there were a dozen places like this in town, but sadly there are only 2-3. Ignore the fact that they sell Dr. Bonner’s soap, and instead pick up a locally made comal to cook tortillas back home, a classic mortar and pestle, or just funky hand-dyed socks and scarves for prices that are more Muji than Alessi.
Onora One notch higher-level than Utilitario bust sadly half the size, the house-wares here are stunning and all made by artisans across Mexico.
Fabrica Social/FonArt- Same deal, locally hand-woven tops for women that crosses classic with contemporary Mexican style.
OMR Gallery - The Emmanuel Perrotin/Gagosian of Mexico City, they have shows of local up-and-comers like Gabriel Rico and also sell pieces by heavy-hitters like James Turrell and Candida Höfer.
Adhesivo Contemporary The wonderfully ebullient Edith Vaisberg runs this great gallery that, along with spots like Trastienda, is helping champion a new generation of Latin artists.
Headquarter - if you want to feel like you’re back in a State-side streetwear/skate shop, this is your spot.
Xinú A stunning perfume store.
Mercado Cuidadela
MARKETS
Mercado de Artesanias La Cuidadela This one is the most famous and easily the one you can skip. It’s the same inauthentic tacky crap that you find the street peddlers at the Pyramid Ruins hawking. That said, if you need a Lucha Libre mask to bring home as a gift, feel free to spend twenty minutes here. Also skip the Mercado Sábado in San Angel which feels like a more upscale but equally contrived version of this one.
Mercado Jamaica The best market we hit, it’s 85% a flower market, 15% food/pinata/tons of other stuff. A real sight to behold. And the food felt more locally sourced than the more famous San Juan market (below).
Mercado San Juan - the food market everyone goes to. That said, you can’t help but wonder if the chocolate-dipped scorpions are there more as dares for the tourists than actual food for the locals. Still, a couple spice stands and an iconic coffee spot make it an important destination.
Mercado Sonora - from what I hear this is the most authentic of all the markets but also a bit on the dangerous side. If you choose to go, you should go with a guide of some sort.
The legendary grilled fish at Contramar
EATING
BREAKFAST/LUNCH
Mulino El Pujol If you can’t score a reservation to Pujol, the most famous and decorated restaurant in Mexico City, make sure to visit El Mulino, their neighborhood tortilleria, where they crank out fresh tortillas for the locals and AMAZING breakfasts for everyone else. The churros are some of the best in town and the simple avocado or cheese tacos and quesadillas are exceptional. Wash it all down with cacao-infused water or a coffee.
Rosetta At first sight the pastries feel more European than Mexican, but their conchas and guava danish are really delicious. Worth picking something up while you stroll through the Roma neighborhood. They also have a more formal restaurant across the street that serves a lovely lunch in a sun-filled atrium.
Quentin A small chain (maybe 3-4) of well-designed coffee shops, a bit like their Intelligensia. They bake all their own pastries which are just as good as the coffee.
El Cardenal Make sure to go to the one downtown as there is now another in the suburbs. The original is a true classic, from the room to the menu. The food isn’t groundbreaking but it’s delicious and a perfect time capsule of another era.
LUNCH/DINNER
Expendio De Maiz (cash only) All I can say is THIS PLACE IS INSANE! Only open for lunch (it closes at 5pm), and only 4 tables, it’s essentially an open kitchen tucked into a gutted storefront. From here, some of the most creative dishes I’ve ever eaten get churned out one after another. There’s no menu, it’s basically mexican omakase, and each plate is better than the next, all centered around ancient varietals of corn and grain. Can’t recommend this place enough. Go on the earlier side to avoid a wait.
Maximo Bistro One of our favorite meals in town, it would be right at home in Venice Beach or the 11th arrondissement in Paris. Fancy without being pretentious, the food feels more continental than Mexican, but it is a really really special evening.
Contramar Another must, this mecca of seafood—along with Pujol— put the Mexico City restaurant scene on the map. It’s a bustling bistro that feels a bit like Cafe Flore in Paris due to the non-stop cavalry of black-vested waiters. The two absolute must dishes are the tuna tostadas to start and the whole grilled fish as a main course, which I recommend getting done 50/50 (half parsley butter coated, half red chile marinated). So so good…Skip the desserts though and make sure to reserve far enough in advance that you can be seated in the original space and not their new addition.
Rosetta This is what happens when an incredibly talented Mexican chef tries her hand at Italian food. It’s adventurous, tasty, and a bit spicy! A stunning space, it’s a really lovely meal across the street from her famous bakery and coffee shop.
Pujol If you can get in, GET IN. Try through your hotel, the website, by phone, any way. It is a beautiful trip through all the various regions of Mexico, from the perspective of the country’s most ground-breaking chef. If I’m not mistaken the bar is reserved for walk-ins and forgoes the classic tasting menu for a taco one (there may even be a separate reservation page under Omakasa Tacos Pujol). And if all else fails, go to his taco bar/lounge Ticuchi. However, you should definitely skip his incredibly ordinary Eno neighborhood restaurants. The one at the Jumex is fine for museum food but the others are all passable.
Quintonil - Another World’s Top 50 restaurant. delicious, light, mixing deep Mexican heritage with contemporary cuisine. If you were to choose one, I’d still pick Pujol, but for a special lunch, this spot is absolutely lovely.
Meroma Not particularly Mexican, it was nonetheless one of the best meals we had in town. Would feel right at home in Highland Park.
Los Cocuyos
DOWN AND DIRTY
Taquería Los Cocuyos There are a million little street stands for tacos in this town, but for some reason, this one is the one people have crowned the best. The tacos are damn tasty but if you aren’t feeling overly adventurous steer clear of the ojo (eye) and get the suerde (like carnitas) or longaniza.
El Califa This may be a chain but you know what, so is Magnolia Bakery, Zankou Chicken, and the Aman. For a KILLER al pastor taco and local beer at any time of day or night, this place does NOT disappoint. That said, don’t steer too far from these classics as the rest of the menu can be a bit standard.
La Bipolar and Los Tres Reyes - Go to either of these on Sundays for barbacoa.
El Parnita A beautiful little cafeteria. Order the quesadillla con chicharon/queso/nopales or calabaza/huitaloche.
Casa Organica
ACTIVITIES
Casa Organica and Parque Quetzalcóatl Casa Organica, the vision of groundbreaking, psychedelic architect Javier Senosiain, will forever be in the top ten experiences of my entire life. The on-going Parque project is just as special, but sadly as of this writing both are closed to the public (but it’s worth emailing Fernando to see if he can arrange something). If a tour isn’t in the cards, don’t be disappointed as you can actually stay in a third Senosiain space, El Nido De Quetzalcóatl. Book far far in advance—in fact plan a whole trip around this stay—it will be the most special trip of your life.
Walking around Coyoacán A bit far-flung but possibly my favorite neighborhood. Not necessarily for food/shopping/museums, but just the vibe of the place, the architecture, the peaceful tranquility of the streets. While you’re there though, make sure to grab coffee at Café Avellaneda, which is further away from most of my favorite streets and plazas (sip your coffee in the nearby Fuente de Los Coyotes Park) but worth it for the high-quality roast.
Roma/Juarez/Condessa The three more central neighborhoods worth strolling through, they feel like Palmero in Buenos Aires, the West Village, parts of Brooklyn. Plenty of shops/coffee joints/etc…many of which I’ve already talked about throughout here. Plot out a few of the stores and galleries you want to visit and then stroll between them, discovering new surprises along the way.
Lucha Libre You really do have to do one match of this folkloric Mexican wrestling, a trip wouldn’t be complete without. Part theater, part circus, all pageantry, the matches are held Friday nights, last two hours, and you can easily go for one hour, have a couple cheap beers, and get your fill.
A DAMN GOOD GUIDE TO PARIS
Behold, the only guide to Paris you will ever need. Bookmark it, share it, live it.
I used to call this list A Complete Guide to Paris. Obviously, it’s not. There’s no complete guide to anywhere. But it is a solid start and packs in enough to do that you’ll be busy for 4-5 days. There’s a mix of touristy stuff and locals-only. But in a town like Paris, there are few secrets anymore so don’t be surprised to hear English in the most hidden of gems, though the best spots really balance the clientele well, others not so much (FWIW, we actually love the FOLDEROL gang and everything they do). Also, note that the “slower” times to come to Paris are mid-October and May. The weather is still nice then and it’s relatively light out in the evening.
I realize the list is long and not organized by neighborhood so at the bottom I’ve mapped out a solid 4 day planning that allows you to dive deep into a different neighborhood each day, avoiding criss-crossing the city.
To get around I recommend two things.
The first is to download and set up the G7 taxi app. They are the equivalent to yellow cabs in NY and are allowed to use bus lanes throughout the city, allowing you to get places up to three times faster than an Uber (like Uber there are different categories of car, you can reserve days in advance, etc…).
The second thing is to download either the Lime Bike or Velib’ app as well. THE BEST WAY to get across town is by bike. I was TERRIFIED of biking in Paris the first few years I lived here, but they have made giant leaps in building out the bike lanes and the East-West axises are great (on the Left bank there is a lane all along the quais while the Right Bank’s Rue de Rivoli has been reduced from four lanes of traffic to one, with two massive bike lanes that run from Concorde to Bastille.
And a few other very important notes…
LOOK UP! Download the Flash Invader app. The legendary Parisian street-artist Invader has spent the better part of the last thirty years affixing small tiled works of art around the city, usually just above the first floor of buildings, usually on their corners, in the style of 1980s video game graphics. An industrious fan set about creating a little game whereby each time you spot one you snap a picture and get points. There’s a leaderboard, but after eight years of hard work, my wife has “only” found 400 out of the 3,000 existing ones!! Once you start you can’t stop, and if you live in a major global metropolis, chances are there are some to be found in your hometown too (we’ve spotted them in Rome, LA, Tokyo, New York, Bangkok, Mexico, and beyond). One note, beware of counterfeits…
LOOK DOWN! There is nothing Parisians love more than their dogs…except leaving behind what comes out of their behinds. In the 1980s the situation got so dire that the local government deputized a squadron of motorcycle-riding poop-vaccuming street cleaners. Things have only gone downhill since…so keep one eye peeled for Invader art, the other eye peeled for doo.
EVERYTHING IS CLOSED SUNDAY AND A TON IS ALSO CLOSED MONDAYS!!! So plan your trip accordingly. If you only have 4-5 days, make it a Tues-Sat. affair.
If you plan on doing some serious shopping bring your passport with you to stores. Every time you spend more than $200 in a shop they will refund you the taxes via a form that you scan at the airport right before checking in for your flight. It takes about ten minutes to do at CDG and you get the cash back right then and there, basically 20% off all your purchases for the trip!
Ok, that’s enough chit-chat let’s get to work. First the list, then the itinerary.
HOTELS
Super-High-End
The best rooms in the city are the Tuilerie-facing rooms at Le Meurice. The hotel is incredibly centrally located and you will be looking out at the Eiffel Tower, Louvre, and Tuileries Gardens. The city’s most famous pastry chef oversees the breakfast/dessert menu, and the concierge can get anything done for you. But if you can’t get a room on the park, it’s not worth the money. Similarly, the rooms overlooking the Seine at the Cheval Blanc are unbeatable, while the others are skippable.
High-End
In the heart of the Marais, facing one of the city’s most beautiful squares, is the new Cour des Vosges which looks exceptional though some of the decor seems a bit heavy-handed (take a look for yourself). Another recco if you’re looking for quiet and understated: the Italian chain J.K. Place has opened up a beautiful little hotel though in a not-so-ideal location. I love taking meetings in the lobby, and the rooms are perfectly appointed.
A Bit More Reasonable
The problem with Paris is that it has eight of the best hotels in the world that are all over a thousand dollars a night, and then nothing until you get to tiny affordable rooms at $250 in weird neighborhoods. Chateau Voltaire is definitely going for the Chateau Marmont spirit and the restaurant at lunchtime is a big fashion hang-out. A notch below price-wise, the Touriste hotel group has a smattering of addresses across the city with affordable rates and great design. But make sure to get their biggest rooms, as the smallest ones won’t have enough space for all the shopping bags you’ll amass!
GALLERIES AND MUSEUMS
Foundation Louis Vuitton. Frank Gehry’s big splash of a monument just outside the city houses the head of LVMH’s private collection along with temporary shows. It’s a bit out of the way but well worth the trek.
Not to be outdone, France’s other fashion oligarch, Francois Pinault, just opened his own stunning museum, La Bourse du Commerce, designed by Tadao Ando. This one is just a few blocks from the Louvre and is absolutely spectacular. It’s a real quick visit and so centrally located you can squeeze it in at any time.
The most anticipated opening of the fall is the opening of Serge Gainsbourg’s home to the public. After being shuttered for thirty years, the house has now been transformed into an audio tour guided by his daughter Charlotte, followed by a space with rotating temporary exhibits. Book wayyyyy in advance as they will only be letting ten people in at a time due to space constraints.
After endless years of renovations, the Hotel de La Marine at Place Concorde is open and it’s a stunning example of the past and the future converging. An exquisite palace that was the former HQ of the French Navy, it was also the site of the largest jewelry heist in the country’s history. Make sure to take the extended audio tour (Le Grand Tour), where instead of boring people droning on about dates and facts, they have produced a top-notch radio-drama that revolves around the theft. Of course available in English!
Across the street from the Hotel de la Marine, inside the Tuileries, is the Orangerie that houses Monet’s water lilies along with rotating temporary exhibits. It takes all of 20 minutes to run through the place but is well worth it as the rooms housing the massive Monet canvases are one of the most special, meditative rooms I’ve ever been in. Book in advance, and if you’re in town a good long while in spring or summer, try taking a day out to Monet’s gardens in Giverny to see the same water lilies for real. Warning, there will be mobs of tourists there.
The Picasso Museum has done a great job of re-defining itself for the 21st century, bringing in a diverse group of designers to overhaul the space every few months. Definitely purchase tickets online in advance.
Another incredible single-artist museum is the Musee Rodin. Ideally go in the early summer with a picnic as the gardens are beyond special, but at any time of the year it’s remarkable to tour the grounds and the incredible home where he spent his final years sculpting.
Musee de la Chasse A quiet gem a couple blocks away from the Picasso museum. Definitely worth a stroll through followed by a crepe at the nearby Briezh creperie.
Perrotin (there are two of them, linked by a secret passageway in the back of the main one that drops you into a little alley facing the other). Paris' biggest contemporary art gallery, stoking the likes of Murakami, Arsham, and plenty more.
A couple blocks away is David Zwirner’s new gallery, which is housed in Yvon Lambert’s old one. Afterwards, stop by the original Breizh cafe for the best crepe in Paris.
Thaddaeus Ropac is another exceptional contemporary gallery where you’ll find everything from Banks Violette to Alex Katz’s latest series.
A bit further away, a few blocks from the Pompidou (which is about to close for renovations), is Templon, a great iconic gallery with two locations, one hidden in the back of a courtyard on Rue Beaubourg, the other a luminous new space a block away on Rue du Grenier-Saint-Lazare.
The Louvre You can buy tickets in advance but either way avoid the line in front of the pyramid to enter. Instead, go through the shopping arcade accessible via the Rue de Rivoli. Once inside, check out a map and head straight to the room containing the "grands tableaux of the 18th Century". it's three rooms in a row that will BLOW YOUR MIND. You can be in and out of the Louvre in 45 minutes if you just check these out along with the Mona Lisa (which honestly isn't that worth it). I also love the Dutch Masters rooms so check that out.
RESTAURANTS
Verjus’ former head chef Hanz Gueco—an artist in the truest sense—has taken over a tiny spot called Le Cheval D’Or with whimsical takes on Asian food by way of French classics (think sweet and sour pork tart tatin and shrimp toast croque madame). He’s one of the most exciting young chefs in Paris so if you’re down for something less classic, head over here!
Dandelion In the same insanely remote neighborhood as Cheval D’or, you’ll find this really solid wine bar and restaurant that is beloved by locals.
For traditional fish dishes, there is an iconic place deep in the 14th called Le Duc that is like a time warp back to the 50s-60s mid-century design. the food is impeccable, the decor one-of-a-kind, the clientele true Parisians, though the first time we went, John Kerry was a few tables over.
The incredibly talented Pierre Touitou has finally opened his first restaurant, 19 Saint Roch, right in the heart of the 1st. Perfectly-executed, Japanese-influenced mediterranean food await in an elegantly sparse space. It has the laidback feel of eating in your best friend’s kitchen, there is a warmth to the atmosphere and the food alike.
Maison Sota. A bit far-flung in the 11th in a former coffee storage facility, the chef of the legendary Clown Bar opened the most whimsical, elegant, unpretentious, and tasty restaurant in town. The tasting menu ranges from savory french toast amuse-bouches to Japanese shaved ice desserts in summertime. The upstairs communal table is made of a single 24’ piece of wood, and I could continue talking about all the other reasons to go here but instead just book a table and dig in.
You probably think there is an idyllic French bistro on every corner with a great steak frites and cheap bottle of wine, but the reality is that there are only six restaurants in town as perfect as the one you imagine. And yes, they are all over-run by tourists but also cater to classic Parisian clientele. La Fontaine de Mars, Le Bon Georges, the completely unrelated Chez Georges, L’Ami Louis (which requires a bank loan and arterial cleanse) and Le Voltaire are the five that come to mind. All are exceptional but I have a soft spot for Fontaine de Mars and their Île Flottante dessert…
A newly-discovered gem in this classic category is Le Bon Saint Pourçain in the most idyllic locale near the Luxembourg gardens. But with its small 8-table size, make sure to reserve at least 2-3 weeks in advance!!!
Breizh A half Japanese, half Bretagne creperie that is AWESOME. the best crepes in Paris, bar none. There are a few of them around town now, I like the one in the Marais as a little treat post-galleries at an off-hour. Reserve in advance for lunch on the weekends though!
While an abundance of high-quality sushi may be lacking in Paris, there is no shortage of exceptional Japanese restaurants. The best of the lot is at Ogata, where you should book far in advance. The architecture is as stunning as the meal and be sure to arrive early to browse the adjoining store, tea shop, and basement incense lab.
Much more laid-back is Kunitoraya 2, a stripped-down Udon spot near the Louvre and Palais Royal. Start with the salmon+roe onigiri, followed by the chilled noodles and tempura. A great quick meal. No reservations and lines do form but it moves quickly.
In between these two is Yen, a sober soba spot in the 6th that is a favorite for the fashion crowd. Make sure to ask for a table downstairs and order the toro sushi as an appetizer, it’s the best I’ve ever tasted. If they have the figs with sesame sauce, get that too. And don’t overlook the deceptively simple fruit plate for dessert.
While great Italian food is oddly hard to come by in town, we love Le Cherche Midi, conveniently located a couple doors down from the original Poilane bakery and Le Bon Marche. Further out is Dilia, ideal if you are trying to see a concert at the nearby Maroquinerie, this tasting-menu-only italian spot is on a picturesque square facing an impressive Church. Make sure to book a table outside in the warm months...
For the ultimate view of the city, head to Langosteria in the very fancy new Cheval Blanc hotel, or hit up the more lounge-like Bonnie on the water just past the Marais.
if you want one 3 star meal, I’d suggest Arpege. The chef, Alain Passard, was the first to ever introduce an all vegetarian tasting menu at a 3 star establishment, and this was over twenty years ago! Additionally, it’s his only restaurant, so he’s there every day. So many others have outposts in Dubai and Shanghai, chains in hotels and whatnot. This guy is the real deal. Go for lunch it will be cheaper and you can spend the afternoon walking off the 27 courses!!!
Septime If you can, plan ahead and book a table a month in advance, or show up right at noon for a last-minute spot for lunch, you will be in for a real treat. Consistently on the Top 50 restaurants in the world, this is oddly one of the most LA-contemporary spots in Paris though they would never acknowledge this. It’s definitely worth a visit, along with their more informal apps-only bar, Clamato a few doors down.
For a simple pizza and aperol spritz outdoors, check out Bambini on the terrasse of the Palais de Tokyo. It’s not amazing pizza but you get a peek at the Eiffel Tower, a tasty menu, and then a visit to two museums (the Musee de L’Art Moderne is adjacent as well). If you are looking for a better pie, Pepe at the top of the lovely-to-walk Rue des Martyrs is solid. Afterwards, grab a coffee at art-director Yorgo Tloupas’ spot Yorgaki a block or two down. Finally, the Jon&Vinny’s of Paris can be found within Rori’s a tiny spot on a lovely square selling interesting wines and slinging the only pizza-by-the-slice in town, along with some tasty apps. But be warned, if you’re a pizza snob, none of these places compare to what can be found in NY/LA/New Haven/Detroit/Chicago/Naples/Tokyo…
Le Comptoir du Ritz. Not to be outdone, the Ritz has now opened their own pastry shop, on the backside, across from Chanel on Rue Cambon. While the madeleines are the prized treat they talk about most, it is the trompe l’oeil marble pound cake that in my book is hands down the best pastry in Paris (it’s called “entremets marbré” not to be confused with their real marble cake). They claim it’s for two people but I’ve never had trouble polishing one off single-handedly.
If you are looking for baller sushi, look no further than the breathtaking L’Abysse (spring and summer lunch here is idyllic as the gardens that surround the large windows are in full bloom). There’s also a (slightly) more laid back but insanely-well designed Shunei. Hakuba is another multi-starred Japanese spot inside the Cheval Blanc hotel that is impeccable if astronomical.
Amagat Hidden on the backside of a secret alley deep in the 20th, it is about as impossible to find as a restaurant can be, but WELL WORTH THE TROUBLE. They only do lunch on Sundays and I would recommend this as the light is just beautiful and you feel like you’ve taken a drive to the Spanish countryside as endless amounts of perfectly-prepared tapas land on your plate. from croquettes to ceviches, cured meats to fried squid, each one is exceptional. The seafood restaurant Caché shares a kitchen and is equally tasty.
While we still don’t have Din Tai Fung here, Petit Bao is as good as it comes if you’re craving soup dumplings. But if you want really fancy-pants Michelin-starred dim-sum, Shang Palace in the Shangri-La hotel is the best in town.
STORES
Deyrolle The first floor looks like a straight-forward horticulturist outpost but walk upstairs and discover the most insane 19th century taxidermy wonderland. The last room in the back is the best, with hundreds of drawers you can pull open to discover endless varieties of butterflies and beetles which they will then arrange into stunning works of art for you.
Buly A few blocks down on Rue Bonaparte and a half block away from the Seine, this incredible, luxury beauty shop founded by our friend Victoire de Taillac dates back to the 18th century. Soaps, perfumes, toothpastes, candles and more. Like a French version of Santa Maria Novella with better packaging. A second one can be found in the Marais. It was recently bought by LVMH so pick up goodies now before you see the products in every airport around the world!
And from the founders of Buly come their latest project, A Young Hiker, featuring the best in Japanese outerwear alongside the owner’s own line of gear. They also own a hotel in Switzerland and have featured a café outpost of it here.
L’Uniform. A block down from Buly is the new flagship boutique of L’Uniform. Created by the family who owns Goyard and made in the same town in the south of France as their other iconic brand, this line of flawless canvas bags can be customizable down to the last detail, from monograming to choosing the color of the stitching thread. Think of it as the super-fancy version of the iconic LL Bean tote bag…they make several different styles though, from pencil cases to overnight bags...
Merci A very French, chic overview of kitchenware, home decor, and clothing, along with a nice cafe for lunch. A true Paris classic at this point, you won’t find anything ground-breaking but everything is in perfectly perfect, effortless french taste. a block away is their kids shop called Bonton where you can dress your child like a real parisian (though for baby clothes, every real Parisian knows the secret is Monoprix’s—a French Target—line Bout’Chou.
In the Marais area is Yvon Lambert’s exceptional art bookshop which also sells editions and smaller works of art. Three others that I highly recommend are the nearby 0fr, a stalwart in the art community which plays hosts to incredible signings and exhibitions, along with the smaller Delpire&co whose small selection is perhaps the best curation I’ve ever seen, and finally, Karl Lagerfeld’s 7L.
Charvet. Forget Hermes and Chanel, there is no greater luxury in Paris than a pair of suede slippers or custom-tailored shirt from Charvet on Place Vendome. A Paris institution, the ground floor is where you pick up the perfect silk scarf (and slippers), while reservations are needed to visit the second floor’s labyrinth of cloth samples from which they will outfit you with suits, shirts, and more.
Astier de Villate A beautiful, unique and very Parisian china store on Rue St. Honore a block from the Palais Royal.
E.Dehillerin This is the place to go for a copper madeleine mold pan, the best whisk, or if you venture into their cellar, a stock pot large enough to fit a naughty child…
Around the corner from Dehillerin is the city’s charming HQ for ribbon, yard, and fabric, La Droguerie. Right out of a postcard!
A lighter, fresher version of Astier can be found near the Luxembourg Gardens at the picturesque Marin Montagut. Glassware, platters, and curia are perfectly assembled together.
Le Tampographe adjacent to the iconic Pere Lachaise cemetery and only open on Saturdays, this punk rock stamp spot is incredible. The guy who runs it has created hundreds of different art-stamp sets from Eames-influenced to fully X-rated, from ones the size of a thumbnail to complex geometric sets of 20. A great gift to bring home.
If you love jazz records, look no further than Paris Jazz Corner, located across from Paris’ most unique park that was once an coloseum dating back to Roman times!!!
Palais Royal. A beautiful garden and even more beautiful stores surround it! make sure to check out Kitsune, which is right behind the gardens on Rue Richelieu and their cafe right under the arcades, along with Didier Ludot also in the gardens themselves, where you will find a pristine 1950s Dior ballgown next to a 1980 Paco Rabanne metallic dress. The best in vintage, more like a museum!
Another store worth visiting while in the Palais Royal is Maison Bonnet which makes one-of-a-kind eyewear out of real tortoise shell and buffalo horn. Beware, they cost the price of a car and take six months to make but it’s worth visiting despite this! (If you are looking for equally chic glasses that will be ready in two days with a prescription filled, look no further than the beautifully designed boutique Ahlem by Brasserie Lipp).
Another Palais Royal gem is Serge Lutens, one of the city’s most famous, classic perfumeries.
Le Bon Marche-a bit like the Barney's of Paris, but with one lone location, it's an icon and of all the big department stores by far the chicest and most understated. there's a great big food hall across the street (La Grande Epicerie)
Kith This New York-based sneaker temple took over a STUNNING former embassy off the Champs Elysee. They installed a Sadelle’s cafe in there so you can get your fix of bagels&lox and french toast while picking up the latest kicks in the most stunning of decors.
The Dior flagship on Avenue Montaigne features an impeccably designed museum around the corner which is worth a quick visit, and a lovely, airy cafe inside the actual store.
Canal St. Martin A bit like Venice CA meets Willamsburg, in that there is a canal and tons of super hipster stuff all around, this is a great neighborhood to stroll through, discover tiny boutiques and grab a coffee. Start at Du Pain et Des Idées, and roam around both sides of the canal to discover great little boutiques. For a coffee to help you power through, stop by Ten Belles.
For those that want to visit the flea markets, the best of the lot is at Clignancourt, open just on the weekends. The place is VAST to say the least, an endless maze of small stands reminiscent of Middle Eastern bazaars. But a great starting point (or place for the taxi to drop you off, is Paul Bert Serpette. It has the highest concentration of super-high-end mid-century modern pieces and other gems we’re all on the hunt for. Make sure to book a post-shopping lunch at Bonne Aventure ahead of time, as it is one of the only good spots in this very remote part of town. If you’re just in the market for a beautiful vintage butter knife and not a $17,000 Prouvé chair of dubious lineage, I recommend going to the smaller, more accessible Puce de Vanves where you’ll be sure to score at least one treat that can fit in your carry-on.
COFFEE+DRINKS
Cafe Verlet An iconic, century-old coffee shop that also happens to serve a decent croque-monsieur and French toast. The place has a really nice cozy feel, great to catch up with a friend or have a meeting. Other great coffee shops include Cafe Nuances, Ob-La-Di, and Telescope.
Cravan, an exceptional, understated cocktail bar started in the 16th by a former Chateaubriand barman, has now opened a major space in the 6th a block from Lipp and Flore. Spread over five (!!!) floors, featuring a fully stocked Rizzoli library on one level and a tiny outdoor gazebo for 5 on the roof, with cocktails that veer away from espresso martinis and lean more into the lore of the 1920s, this may be our favorite watering hole. The accompanying small bites menu is as impressive as the rest of the place.
Bar Nouveau This tiny little storefront cocktail spot in the Marais serves about eight singular concoctions, with about just as many seats doting the perimeter of the bar. But what they lack in space and output they make up for with style and substance: the drinks are spectacular, the vibe is laid-back and fun. Go early to snag a spot and if they offer you a seat downstairs, kindly let them know you’ll wait for a stool upstairs to free itself.
Toraya A block or two away from the flagship Hermes store on Faubourg St. Honore, this impeccable, Japanese tea salon is the best place for a mid-afternoon pick-me up (their iced green tea is unbeatable. i would just stay away from the super-weird japanese confectioneries). But their bento lunch sets are sooooo good too, especially the crab and avocado one. You’ll need to book a week in advance.
Cafe de Flore a classic, go just for a drink or coffee or a mediocre croque-monsieur (it’s not about the food here). It's funny, it's the only place in Paris that is equally flocked to by tourists and locals. a very rare occurence in any city I feel. And whatever you do, do not go to Les Deux Magots a block away.
Little Red Door If you like cocktails with smoke, simple syrups extracted from wildflowers, and other alcoholic innovations, this is THE place to go, consistently in The World’s Top 50 list in the top ten spots. A damn fine drink to be had here. Pro tip: Don’t try to push the little red door open, it doesn’t. Push the wall to the left to enter.
Chateau Voltaire a new small hotel with a lovely bar that’s just popped up right near the Palais Royal and the Paris Opera House. A nice little scene at night.
Bisou If you just want to dance your ass off, make sure the desire hits on a Thursday, the only day of the week this underground club opens up its door.
FOOD SHOPPING
Our latest obsession is Lastre (Sans Apostrophe), a small little store on Rue de Grenelle near the Rue Cler markets. The man, Yohan Lastre, has won best paté in flaky dough in the world and runner-up of best deviled eggs. Weird, but true, he boasts of it with framed certificates on the wall. There are also a dozen prepared dishes, homemade yoghurts and mousses, tasty baked goods, and so much more. THE BEST DELI IN PARIS. A bit like Cookbook in LA…
One of the only all-organic markets takes place near the Bon Marche every Sunday morning on Blvd. Raspail. Because such a market is so rare it gets PACKED so try to make it there before 9:30 or suffer the hordes!
Les Terroirs de L’Avenir on Rue du Nil. Started by the owner of Frenchie, Gregory Marchand, who started buying up the pedestrian street he's on and put in a great organic, local fruit and vegetable stand, fishmonger and butcher which he uses for all his dishes. Really top notch, I’ve cooked entire dinner parties simply from the three stores on this street. This is as close as you’ll get to a farmer’s market in Paris. A quick warning: it is completely unreliable in terms of what products they will have!!!!! It’s best to go there without a menu in mind and just use whatever they have at that moment because they are never sure of having or ordering exactly what you want.
If you like cheese, Fromagerie Quatrehomme on Rue de Sevre (two long blocks from Bon Marche on the opposite side as the pastry shop), is considered one of the best in Paris and they can wrap things up for you to take back to the States! But you should also visit Barthélèmy on Rue de Grenelle which is the most picturesque cheese shop i’ve ever seen.
For ham, you MUST GO to the tiny Caractère de Cochon, off Rue de Bretagne in the Marais. they have close to thirty types of hams, smoked and fresh, that are each more exceptional than the next. My favorites are the ones with rosemary and the one that’s gently smoked with plums. they also have tiny tomatoes the size of pearls of caviar resting in olive oil that make a great accompaniment. Either get the ham by the pound or have them prepare you a sandwich on their super-tasty ficelles (narrow baguettes).
Des Gateaux et Du Pain one of the city’s best bakeries/pastry shops with very little recognition for just how exceptional it is. No world-famous chef with stores in japan, no Instagram crazes, no cookbooks or t-shirts, just the best pastries, chocolate croissants, and bread. But it should be noted that quality of pain au chocolates and croissants has a great deal to do with timing. Even the best ones become mediocre a couple hours after they come out of the oven and similarly, if you properly time your visit to your local boulangerie, the croissants will taste better than anything else in the world. For consistency, I actually feel the 5 star hotels have the best breakfast pastries due to the small amounts the produce and the fact that they bake them close to order time. So head over to the Plaza, Ritz, or Crillion for damn good breakfast bread basket.
For spices, the greatest place i've ever seen is Roellinger on Rue St. Anne by the Palais Royale. They have nine types of vanilla beans, countless peppers, along with my wife's favorite teas and jams.
For butchers, the two best are Desnoyer and Bourdonnec. The former is super far away in the 14th but they deliver and cater to the President amongst others while the latter has outposts right near the Bon Marche and in the 16th on Ave. Victor Hugo.
For wine, I like Legrand in the nearby Passage Vivienne, one of those beautiful covered passage-ways. It's been around for close to a hundred years and was recently renovated to include a wine bar which i personally think ruins the vibe of the place, but the back room is still fairly special…
For chocolate and other baking supplies in large, inexpensive quantities, make sure to go to G. Detou, right off Etienne Marcel, across the street from all the incredible kitchen utensil stores. They also have an annex with cans of fois gras and cassoulet which can easily be brought back to the States.
Our favorite bakery these days is Tapisserie from the folks being Clamato and Septime. There’s one near the Ecole Militaire (Eiffel Tower area) with seating and proper bites to eat, and another a block away from Clamato in the 11th. Their maple syrup tart is beyond as are all their viennoiseries (croissants, pain au choc., etc..).
La Manufacture de Chocolat. This chocolate spot next to Bastille is run by France's most famous chef, Alain Ducasse and has outposts all across the city. The space is amazing, the chocolates even better, especially their bars stuffed with fresh pistachios. But now there’s a younger, cooler indie upstart, Plaq, on the Rue Du Nil that just may be better…
My favorite traditional outdoor market is held Wednesday and Saturdays on Avenue President Wilson, just across the street from the Palais de Tokyo. A thing to note though: Americans come over here and romanticize the produce at the outdoor markets but you should know the following: 80% of this is PURE BULLSHIT. A majority of the food sold in Paris (whether it’s at outdoor markets or grocery stores) has to go through Rungis, a major wholesale hub by the airport. These outdoor markets are not “farmers markets” and the produce you find will consist mostly of strawberries from Spain, avocados from Morocco, and oranges from Italy. That, along with a bunch of shitty non-stick cookware and crappy scarves. That said, a few outdoor markets have 1-3 actual farmers’ stands. At Pres. Wilson, a few standouts below…
Joel Thiebault. this guy provided all the vegetables for Darroze, Gagnaire, Piege, and countless other of the city's three star restaurants. Every week, in addition to countless varietals of beets, shelling beans, and tomatoes, there's crazy wildflowers, plants that taste like oysters, and squash that taste like cucumbers. He was bar none the best in the city if not the country but retired a few years ago, but now his former employees took over the fields. You'll know it's his stand by the long lines that form around it, it’s right at the level of the Palais de Tokyo.
Bar à Patate. this lovely lady specializes in potatoes, onions, and the city's best selection of mushrooms, and she couldn't be sweeter.
The crepe stand. As much as I love Briezh, this fairly innocuous spot 2/3 of the way up the market is my favorite street-run spot in the city!!!
***A FULL FOUR DAYS IN PARIS***
DAY 0 - Arrival
Arrive at Hotel
If you want to stretch your legs and the weather’s nice, head to the Tuileries Gardens, make your way down the adjacent pedestrian bridge, cross to the Left Bank and stroll along the Seine for a few bridges, catching the most iconic one, the Pont Alexandre III.
Dinner At Fontaine de Mars
DAY 1- The Marais
Breakfast at hotel or reserved in advance at Cedric Grolet
Gallery Visits: Perrotin, Zwirner, Thaddeus Ropac, Templon
Shop at Librairie Lambert and Castor Floriste
Lunch+Shopping at Ogata
Shopping at Merci
Visit either the Picasso Museum or the Musée de la Chasse
Snack at Briezh creperie
Dinner at Le Duc
DAY 2 - The Left Bank
Breakfast at Tapisserie by Ecole Militaire
Walk past Eiffel Tower (if you want to go up the Eiffel Tower I suggest booking the Jules Verne restaurant at the top. It’s a pricey affair but it allows you to take a private elevator up and not deal with lines/crowds)
Visit the Rodin Museum and Gardens
Lunch at Le Recamier for soufflés, Le Cherche Midi for Italian, or for a 3-star treat, Arpége.
Walk off lunch in the Luxembourg Gardens.
Shopping at Le Bon Marche, the Hermes two blocks away, including the exclusive Petit H collection only available at this branch in the 6th
Shopping at Deyrolle, Buly and L’Uniform, and the myriad of elegant furniture shops along Rue des Saint-Peres/Lille/Université.
Visit Serge Gainsbourg’s house.
Grab a drink at Cravan.
Dinner at Le Bon Saint Pourçain, Le Voltaire, or Yen for something lighter.
DAY 3 - The Right Bank
Quick tour of the Louvre (see my tip for getting in-and-out in 45 minutes)
Even quicker tour of Bourse de Commerce/Pinault Collection
Lunch at Kunitoraya
Stroll around Palais Royal (shop at Serge Lutens, Mason Bonnet, Kitsune)
Walk Rue St. Honore/Fbg. St. Honore
Shop at Astier de Villate, Saint Laurent, Cafe Verlet, Charlotte Chesnais, Chanel (Rue Cambon), Charvet (a must!!), Louis Vuitton, Hermes Flagship, Comme des Garçons
Mid-way pastry stop at either The Ritz Hotel or Cedric Grolet Opera.
Visit L’Orangerie Museum for Monet’s Water Lilies
Dinner at Le Voltaire or 19 Saint Roch
DAY 4 - Fleas and Canals
Early morning, run to the flea market at Clignancourt (Paul Bert Serpettes) or Vanves and spend a couple of hours roaming the alleys
Head back towards Bastille and grab some oysters and a glass of wine at Clamato or stick around Clignancourt and book at table at Bonne Aventure.
Roam around the Canal St.Martin, starting at Du Pain et Des Idées on Rue de Marseille, and criss-crossing the canal and the little streets around it.
Walk the Buttes de Chaumont park.
Dinner at Mason Sota or Cheval D’or.
A LATE SUMMER EAST COAST ROAD TRIP
It’s the waning days of summer, but just because you flipped the August page of your calendar doesn’t mean you can’t have one last adventure! Here’s a quick trip you can take without crossing the Atlantic that will quench your thirst for art, beach, and lobstah.
You’re starting to notice dusk settling in sooner, an errant leaf has fallen off a tree in the park, and pumpkin spice memes are beginning to get rehashed. Don’t despair! There’s still time to pull off one last adventure without having to book a transatlantic flight and endure throngs of tourists in Greece.
And if you’re lucky enough to not have kids, this is the ideal time to pack in a trip up the Eastern Seaboard. This itinerary meanders around a bit, touching on upstate NY, Western Mass, and the Maine Coastline and really works just as well in the fall as it does the summer. It’s a mix of contemporary art, shopping, eating, and nature. Of course there’s more things to discover between Astoria and Acadia National Park so if you’re craving more of something specific, let me know and I’ll give you some tips…
A lazy summer night at the Accord Speedway
DAY 1
I’m basing all this on the fact that you’re starting in New York City so feel free to adapt accordingly. Also, it should be noted that East Coast roadtrips always involve a lot of traffic because there’s basically a major metropolitan hub every thirty-seven miles. So be prepared.
Your destination for the night is a very quick drive upstate to the sprawling Inness resort in Accord, New York in the heart of the Catskills. With beautiful cabins done up in understated modern country design and endless landscaping by the one and only Miranda Brooks, this place is a sight for sore city eyes. If all you want to do is relax, don’t leave the property. If you’re in for a bit of adventure there’s the following:
The town of Woodstock is about a half hour away, where you can shop the main street, grab a film at Tinker Cinema, tacos at Tinker Taco Lab, a smoothie at Sunfrost, and hike Overlook Mountain (for you Angelenos out there, this hike is the Runyon Canyon of the Catskills).
The town of Kingston is experiencing quite a revival. Incredible furniture designers like Josh Vogel have ateliers there, you can find James Beard Award-winning Jamaican food at Top Taste, or great country-home goods at Clove and Creek.
At night the Accord Speedway is a fun little dirt pit with demolition derbies and more. And if you don’t feel like the hotel’s restaurant fare, you can grab a tasty pizza nearby at Ollie’s or Westwind Orchard (where you can also slurp cider made in-house).
Bryan Tolle’s Eureka at Art Omi
DAY 2
Head across the river (making sure to stock up on produce at Montgomery Place Orchard) and north to Kinderhook, right to Morningbird Cafe for their exceptional breakfast sandwich, any of their amazing Malaysian entrees, and their UNBEATABLE mochi donuts. Get a latte and some home goods next door at OK Pantry and then walk a block further to Jack Shainman’s sprawling gallery in the town’s former elementary school (though beware, I believe it’s only open on Saturdays).
Then jump in your car and drive ten minutes to one of my favorite art parks anywhere, ART OMI in Ghent. Hundreds of acres of endless fields and woods dotted with works of contemporary art, it is a really special place (and ideal to walk off all the calories you packed in at Morningbird).
From here you’ll cross into Massachusetts and make your way to the slightly-overpriced Tourist motel in North Adams (sadly it’s really the only game in town but the rooms are nice and bright and the minibar well-stocked). This will be your basecamp for tomorrow’s adventure at MASS MOCA. The food at their restaurant is solid, the town is glum so stay on property and make sure to not get here too early! (If you’re looking for other towns to peep between Inness and here, stroll through the main streets of Hudson and Chatham).
Soaking up the sun at Tourists motel in North Adams
DAY 3
MASS MOCA is a massive art center housed in a former New England factory compound. It will take you a few hours to make your way through, and while they always have great temporary shows, the real pieces de resistance are their 3-4 James Turrell installations and the dozens of Sol Lewitt walls. The Turrells require advance bookings so make sure to plan your visit accordingly (I like going to those rooms first when the fewest number of visitors are there).
Now it’s time to head to the coast! You have two options at this point. I’ll always lobby to spend a night in Boston and catch a Red Sox game because Fenway is the most magical stadium in the US, but if that’s not your thing, ignore the next post and go straight to Kennebunkport, Maine.
If you do go to Boston, I highly recommend the Newbury Hotel, right on the park (make sure you request a park-facing room!). You can take a lackadaisical ride on the swan boats, visit the bronze sculpture that pays homage to McCloskey’s ducks, and stroll Newbury Street and its shops on your way to the ballgame.
The Tides Beach Club at Goose Rock Beach in Kennebunkport
DAY 4+5(+6 if you want)
Either this is a day at the ballpark and a drive to Kennebunkport or you are waking up in Maine. In both cases you’ll want to book at least a couple nights’ stay at The Tides Beach Club (and make sure to shell out a few extra dollars for the Jonathan-Adler designed Junior Suite, it’s the only room with a decent-sized bathroom and a beautiful, unparalleled view of the ocean). It’s operated by a company that has a monopoly on the dozen or so other hotels in the area but this is the only one that allows you access to the town’s best beach (Goose Rock). If you stay elsewhere and want to go to this beach you need to get a parking permit at the crack of dawn at the nearby General Store.
Staying at The Tides also allows you access to their beach umbrellas/loungechairs/food, but a little secret is that you are also allowed all this if staying at their sister property, Hidden Pond, and since they never check, regardless of where you stay just arrive and demand chairs while explaining you are a guest at HP, works every time.
Stay at least a couple days here in Kennebunkport because there is just SO MUCH TO DO AND TO SEE beyond the ice cold Maine waters. Below are two short lists, one in town, the other beyond town.
The idyllic Snug Harbor Farms
In Town
Your first stop has to be Daytrip Society and Daytrip Jr. run by our dear friends Jess Jenkins and Andy West. Think of them as the perfect outfitters for a weekend in Maine. Forgot a thermos? They have the best one from Japan. Need a blanket for a picnic on the beach? They sourced the ultimate version in Norway. Want to read up on birds and spot them? They got your Swiss binoculars and local ornithology dictionary.
For lunch, the best lobster roll in the country (honestly, they won the award for it) can be found at The Clam Shack. When they ask mayo-or-butter make sure to say “BOTH!” For dinner, it’s all about the kitsch and tradition of Nunan’s Lobster Hut (get here eaaaaarrrlllly to avoid a crazy wait).
Snug Harbor Farms is the most enchanting, magical nursery I’ve ever seen.
For a refined scoop of ice cream right in town go to Rococo’s and get the understated but mesmerizing Honey Vanilla. Closer to Goose Rock Beach is the more indulgent Goose Rock Dairy which is a hot spot come dusk.
Palace Diner: the greatest restaurant in the world.
OUT OF TOWN
The greatest meal of your entire life will be at The Palace Diner. I could do an entire post on this place alone it’s so insane, and I could argue that your entire trip could simply be based around driving directly here for one meal and then heading right back to NYC. Housed in an old box car, its fifteen-seat counter fills up FAST in the summer (like be there by 6a or forget it) and slower in the fall. The menu is simple and straightforward but each dish is NAILED. The pancakes will be the best you ever eat, the tuna melt is worthy of a Nobel Prize, the burger is an embarrassment to all others…Their merch is also off-the chain and beware, this place is CASH ONLY!
A lovely evening excursion involves a stroll through the East Point Bird Sanctuary, seaglass hunting along its rocky tide pools, and a dinner of soft-shell lobster at nearby F.O. Goldwaith’s.
While it’s a bit of a shlep, a midnight visit to L.L.Bean HQ in Freeport Maine is worth every minute. The store never closes, in fact there are no locks on the doors, so you can pull up at 3am to try on some Gor-tex, shoot some arrows, and customize their iconic tote bags.
The view from F.O. Goldwaith’s
DAY 6 (AND BEYOND)
At this point you can turn your car around or push further North to Acadia National Park in Northern Maine. If you do, book a room and a meal at Aragosta, on the adjacent Deer Isle. From here, it’s an hour and a half drive to the park where you can hike/boat/swim your days away.
But if it’s time for this magical tour to come to an end, head back to NY along the coast, spending a night at the Vanderbilt in Newport and grabbing a clam pizza at Pepe’s in New Haven the following day before hitting the city traffic and your return to reality.
YOUR FIRST (or third) TRIP TO TOKYO
Tokyo is an insanely overwhelming city so here’s a quick little guide that only gives you the super-ultra tasty from each neighborhood. Zero waste!
Mt. Fuji from the Aman Hotel
A quick note before starting. Tokyo is a BIG city. Like really really really REALLY big. The best way to break up your trip is to only hit one or two neighborhoods by day, and have them be adjoining ones. The great hotels are all far away so plan to leave for the day and don’t come back till you’re ready to pass out. Ideally you would do Shibuya and Roppongi on Day 1, Aoyama/Harajuku/Omotesando on Day 2, Naka-Meguro and Daikan-yama Day 3, and then Shinjuku and either Ginza or the further-afield Team Lab experience on Day 4.
As far as transportation goes, the subway is great though packed during rush hour and can be a bit confusing as multiple entities run different lines so when you transfer, you may need to pay all over again. You should get a Suica card (like Metrocard) on Day 1 if this is how you plan on getting around. Otherwise, the taxis are great with their automatically opening doors and little doily headrests.
Last note, for all you Americans out there who may have trouble wrapping your head around this: tipping is fairly frowned upon, and often even found to be insulting, esp. around the older generation so whether it’s at a restaurant or the hotel valet, save those yen…
HOTELS
The biggest issue with hotels in Tokyo is that all the best ones are in the least interesting neighborhoods, and all the fun neighborhoods don’t have much selection! That said, here are a handful worth checking out.
The Aman never disappoints. Like their resort properties, the soaring sense of space in the public spaces is bewildering, along with the endless views onto the nearby Imperial Gardens. If you’re lucky to coincide with the sakura cherry blossom season in April, you can rent row boats in the gardens and drift down endless rows of pink blooms. And now, for half the price and almost all the refinement, you can check out their new spin-off property, Janu.
The iconic Okura Hotel recently underwent a renovation where some of its classic mid-century design was sadly replaced, but the lobby is apparently still a perfect architectural masterpiece where you can grab a quiet drink.Meanwhile, steer clear of the Park Hyatt from Lost in Translation, it’s even more remote than these two places and frankly a bit dated.
Ideally you would want to be near Shibuya and Roppongi though the hotel selection there isn’t great. But if you don’t want to break the bank on the Aman, check out either the Grand Hyatt in Roppongi or the Trunk and Sequence hotels in Shibuya.. The Hyatt feels like you’re in the American Airlines Terminal at any airport in the US, while the Trunk and Sequence hotels are more in the spirit of The Ace or Standard Hotels (meaning BYO-earplugs). You’ll definitely want to splurge on the bigger category of rooms here as the small ones are not meant for Western body builds (or suitcases for that matter).
The brush selection at Pigment
SHOPPING
If you wanted to stroll through history, let’s face it, you would have gone to Kyoto. Tokyo is ALL ABOUT THE SHOPPING. And it’s all great. Skate T-s, vintage-wear, house-wares, cameras from the 90s, Pokemons from the future, it’s all here. And even the stuff you find back home is somehow just done better here. So get some good Asics that can support your feet for twelve hours a day of walking and let’s gooooooo.
Shibuya
The Times Square of Tokyo, with its iconic five-way crossing, is also the epi-center of luxury mall shopping. Since the Olympics new soaring towers have been erected and classic destinations have been made-over. Beyond the big stores, there are dozens of side-streets with crazy arcades, manga stores galore, and more. The only thing missing is food! Do NOT find yourself hungry in Shibuya because your only decent option is Din Tai Fung in the Shibuya Scramble mall. Come to think of it, life could be worse.
One of the many new developments finished in time for the Olympics was the Scramble tower mall, a stone’s throw from the iconic Shibuya crossing. A classic department store but there’s one corner in particular of note: THE Shop. The idea is that they have sourced the very best of everything into one little area, so the ultimate white t-shirt, the greatest tinfoil, the must-have lint-roller, etc…And because it’s Japan, everything comes in the greatest packaging you’ve ever seen.
A classic that was revamped for 2020, this one has some really fun, unique spaces including ones devoted to Super Mario, Pokemon, and contemporary art.
This one in Shinjuku is iconic, the Harrods or Bon Marché of Tokyo, with the most dizzying food hall in the basement. They also do great one-off collaborations and artist installations.
If you’re looking for great camera gear like a vintage Leica or Contax T3, two of the better options out there are Lemon Camera and Kitamura, spread out over five floors two blocks from Isetan.
Naka-Meguro
A little cherry-blossom-lined canal with cute shops and cafes, this strip is slightly out of the way but feels more local than Aoyama and Roppongi.
An awesome tiny bookstore with crazy great first editions of Jack Kerouac, rare Joel Meyerowitz photo books, and so much more. But the real treat is their own branded merch: everything from t-shirts to firewood bags, all stitched with their slogan “EVERYTHING FOR THE BOOKS”. You can’t leave Tokyo without going here.
Across the canal and a couple blocks down from Cow Books is Visvim’s stunning flagship store, a collection of three traditional Japanese buildings regrouped via a labyrinth of little alleys, gardens, and trickles of water. Even if you can’t afford $1300 for a pair of sneakers that look like basic New Balances, it is well worth visiting this mecca.
Adjacent to Naka-Meguro is Daikan-yama with a couple streets worth walking, and one store in particular worth trekking to. Tsutaya has several branches but this one is the world's largest art/fashion/architecture/photo bookstore. it's three inter-connected buildings and just BREATHTAKING!!! A few blocks away is Bonjour Records (a decent record/magazine shop), near an all-indigo-dyed store and a Californian-inspired vintage denim-and-flannel shop a couple doors down.
Okay, there’s better coffee in Tokyo (see the next section) but this three-story feat of engineering is worth a detour simply because it’s so insane, like if Willy Wonka decided to design a Starbucks. From matcha and chocolate fountains, to dizzying chutes&ladders that send raw beans cascading into roasters, you will be instantly hypnotized.
Aoyama-Omotesando-Harajuku
This is like mid-town Manhattan or Beverly Hills. You’ll get all the flagship Dior and Ralph Lauren shops but there’s a lot more hidden away on side streets, especially in the adjacent Harajuku and Cat Street.
Beams has a bunch of stores over town, each one specializing in something different (men's, women's, outdoors, music, etc..) the T-shirt store in Harajuku is great. the layout and staff are awesome too. just below they have a hole-in-the-wall music store that's really well selected. They have just created a new Beams Japan shop in Shinjuku near Isetan that carries thing exclusively made in Japan and is DEFINITELY worth checking out for everything from crafts to streetwear.
If you only go to one store in Tokyo, it’s going to be Kiddiland. This is where you will find most of the gifts you'll want to bring back for friends. Humping Dog USB keys, pancake-flavored Kit Kat bars, all the hits that have made Japan so cool for so long. The first time I went to Tokyo this was the first place we hit and I wanted to buy everything there. My friend was like "this is the first place we hit. hold off, let's see what else we find...." well, we never found anything as great, anywhere else, ever.
Tucked away a few blocks behind the aging Omotesando Hills mall, this architectural jewel of a little charred wood cube is where you go for a serious cup of coffee. I saw three people in line and thought I’d be in and out in six minutes. Forty-five minutes later I was about to order. They will begin with an interview where you discuss your preferences in life from literature to bitterness of coffee and after careful analysis they will permit themselves to suggest a certain bean for you. If it’s not to your liking, don’t worry, there are 33 others, presented in a gradation of colors. When you’re finally served your actual cup of coffee, please please please do not ask for Stevia or non-fat creamer. Heads will roll…
Comme Des Garçons and Prada.
You kind of have to go to CdG in Tokyo, not going would be like skipping the Coliseum in Rome. But the store’s architecture pales in comparison to Herzog&DeMeuron’s glass ode to Prada a block away. While you’re in the neighborhood make sure to also check out CdG protege Sacai’s flagship store on a little side street near a James Perse store that makes its original, airy LA store feel like a Siberian gulag.
Closer to Roppongi than Aoyama, this enormous complex houses the Ritz Carlton (a good option if you’re traveling on points), Tadao Ando’s 21_21 subterranean museum space, and a full-scale mall with SO MANY FUN STOPS!!! There’s an incredible dog groomer that is pure instagram fodder, a fruit shop where you can purchase an individual strawberry for $10 (I can confirm that it takes exactly like a strawberry), the best-designed Japanese knife shop in the world, and countless other spots.
Shinjuku
This one in Shinjuku is iconic, the Harrods or Bon Marché of Tokyo, with the most dizzying food hall in the basement. They also do great one-off collaborations and artist installations.
Lemon Camera and Kitamura
If you’re looking for great camera gear like a vintage Leica or Contax T3, these are the two best options. Kitamura is spread out over five floors, two blocks from Isetan, while Lemon is closer to Ginza.
Lunchtime at Toraya
DINING
My wife's favorite tonkatsu (fried, breaded pork cutlet) place, and always our first meal in tokyo. it's run by THREE GENERATIONS of the same family (the grandmother tends the register, all hunched over, the father and son fry the cutlets). only two things on the menu: fatty and lean. a great experience. Pro tip: you will come away reeking of hot frying oil, so don’t wear that brand new Comme shirt you just spent a thousand bucks on. Also, insist on eating at the counter downstairs, away from the tourists upstairs. The wait may be longer, but the cred (and view) will be greater.
Sushi Sho and Nihombashi Kakigaracho Sugita
There are scores of top-tier serious sushi counters in Tokyo, these just happens to be two exceptional ones favored by the locals.
For another Japanese tradition, the formal yet intricately artistic multi-course kaiseki meal, look no further than this spot. Austere, yes. Delicious, absolutely. Astronomically expensive, kinda.
Often hovering around the Top 50 Restaurants of the world, this minimal, modern spot is a perfect mix of Japan and contemporary European touches, a special story that begins with their own sake label and the bread that is baked on a stone at your table…
This iconic tea house has just been relocated and now houses an expansive shop, art gallery, and restaurant. Perfect for a simple bento box, a red bean cake, or elegant gifts to bring home.
If you want really really really out-of-the-way and incredibly special, this oasis of peace was created by the architect and owner behind Ogata in Paris, and has an AMAZING traditional breakfast as well as tea service. Located about 45 minutes outside of town in a beautiful home with gardens and breathtaking contemporary yet traditional Japanese interior design.
Savoy Pizza sadly closed its doors but its predecessors and disciples continue exceptional, unexpected pizza. Check out this gem in Roppongi or the steam-punk weirdness of Seirinkan. For something less “local”, the pizza in the Mandarin Oriental ranked 16th best pizza in the world.
A quick roundup of the rest: for the best chicken noodle soup that will put all Jewish grandmothers to shame, look no further than Kagari. If gyoza is your thing, Gyozanomise Okei has the best in town, and if you’re looking for the weirdest place to grab coffee, across the street from Yoyogi Park you will find Anakuma Cafe. I don’t really want to say more than this and spoil the surprise…
The Gardens of the Nezu Museum
MUSEUMS
A beautiful spot for some quiet meditation in the heart of the city (in Aoyama, blocks from the Prada tower). The works inside are a bit meh, but the gardens are really beautiful and a very special place to spend a quiet hour There’s also a little restaurant that looks out onto the gardens. i can’t vouch for it but it should be pretty solid.
My favorite Japanese architect Kuma Kengo not only designed the Nezu but has just recently created a museum near the Meji Jingu Shrine. The structure and surrounding woods are spectacular, and the adjacent shrine is also one of the oldest in Japan (though mobbed my tourists). Both are located in the centrally located Yoyogi Park at the top of Omotesando.
The other great contemporary art space that you should visit is the Mori Tower. It’s part observation deck, part contemporary museum (with single-artist shows such as Kaws, Murakami, etc..). If you stay at the Grand Hyatt, it’s literally in the same building or adjacent.
This is an odd one but in the 1970s, Japanese-American artist Isamu Noguchi created the atrium for a nondescript office building Sogetsu Foundation, near the Imperial Gardens and it is insane. A series of different stone blocks, some of which feature carved out spaces in which to place intricate floral arrangements. It rivals any of the rock gardens in Kyoto’s temples yet flies totally under the radar.
Terrada Art Complex is a new collection of all-Japanese art galleries. It will be great in ten years, right now there’s one exceptional gallery on the ground floor and a handful of decent ones scattered across a lot of empty upper floors.
In future guides you won’t find me urging you to visit The Ice Cream Museum, or The Stranger Things Experience or anything other POS “experiential” spaces, but Team Lab in Tokyo is an outlier. These guys (from what I hear about a hundred programmers) have designed the most bonkers series of spaces that yes, are designed to maximize your Instagram-worthy pix, but are also genuinely fun worlds to explore.
Between Terrada and Team Lab which are both in the MIDDLE OF NOWHERE, is one of the most awe-inspiring art shops I’ve ever come across, Pigment. One wall stretches out endlessly with an infinite rainbow of colored pigments, while another wall formally frames dozens of options of natural binding glues. Every conceivable (and inconceivable!) sized paint brush is displayed with Wes Andersonian mise-en-scene. You could literally spend an hour in here staring straight ahead and not buying anything. Incredible. Truly.
(eating and) SKIING THROUGH THE ITALIAN ALPS
For this second installment of Tripping With Phil I’m going list-style, allowing you to build your own adventure.
Cortina D’Ampezzo
For this second installment of Tripping With Phil I’m going list-style, allowing you to build your own adventure. I’m always happy with feedback, so if you prefer a day-by-day itinerary format, let me know and I’ll favor those in the future.
A few notes before diving in:
The easiest airport to fly into is Venice. I would recommend booking a couple nights there beforehand as the ski season is also one of the quieter times to visit (though beware of the week surrounding Carnivale!).
This is a region where you will definitely want to have your own car so rent one straight from the Venice airport and make sure it’s all-wheel drive (and automatic if you don’t drive stick!).
One of the best meals you’ll have is minutes away from the airport. Make sure to score a table at Trattoria Al Passo. Off the side of the freeway and with a website that links to a dead Facebook page, it may not seem like much, but it’s a locals secret that is exceptional.
There are two towns in the area that we love equally for different reasons. Cortina has better food but the hotel and variety of slopes in San Cassiano is unbeatable. The two towns are about 30-40 minutes from each other, so perhaps stay in each for 4-5 days.
You can get your ski passes that cover both domains in advance here. Kids under 8 ski free!
All of the restaurants listed here require reservations. The best thing to do is a month before the trip tell the concierge of your hotel(s) which tables you want when and they will sort it all out. Seriously, it’s crazy how it gets, the first trip out I couldn’t even score a Snickers bar on the mountain the first day. But it’s all worth it for the meals you’ll enjoy. Also, make sure to be precise that you want to eat outdoors otherwise they’ll sit you inside like a chump.
Alpinn Restaurant atop Kronplatz
SAN CASSIANO
THE SLEEPING
Our favorite hotel here, The Rosa Alpina, has recently become part of the Aman collection, and while its scale is much quainter than the brand’s other offerings, it is still a really nice spot to spend a few days. It is currently under renovation (the bathrooms could use some Aman-ification), with plans to open for the 2024-25 season.
If you’re trying to get here sooner, the only other spot in this tiny town would be the well-located but more pedestrian Hotel Armentarola, whose outdoor deck is one of the best spots to grab lunch between runs. Finally, the adjoining town of Corvara is really charming and shares many of the San Cassiano slopes. I haven’t been to the Hotel Sassongher there but it seems okay if a bit dated.
THE SKIING
There are a few different zones around to choose from, most accessible straight from the hotel, with the third (that you must visit) an hour’s drive away.
Cassiano/Corvara/Colfosco/Sellaronda
This is the main area right out the door. A great variety of slope—though none too challenging—all linked together from the Piz Sorega lift in town. You can easily spend 2-3 days here, hardly repeating a slope.
Lagazuoi
This is just awesome. A proper- half day adventure. You’ll need to take a taxi or shuttle to get to the start (you’ll end up back at the hotel so taking your car doesn’t make much sense), which is a gondola right out of a Wes Anderson film. From here, ski down to THE GREATEST MEAL OF YOUR LIFE at Scotoni.
One of the few places to not accept reservations, you’ll want to get here on the earlier side. On a nice day, score a table outside and bask in the sun, on a cold one cosy up to the monster grill inside. Either way, make sure to get a big-ass steak and a heaping portion of Kaisherschmarnn, a scrambled pancake soufflé that is an Austrian speciality.
From here, follow the crowds down the mountain until you find yourself in line to take the most unique chairlift in Europe: a horse-drawn carriage with a big piece of rope trailing behind it that skiers just latch onto and are pulled all the way back to Armenterola where you can connect with the bulk of the slopes that will eventually get you back to San Cassiano. Note: this ride costs a couple euros, paid in cash to the sleigh driver, so make sure to have some spare coins on you!
Kronplatz-Plan de Corones
About an hour’s drive from San Cassiano, this huge resort is always deserted when we go despite having tons to offer. We really don’t get it, but you should hop in your car and drive here for the day.
Beyond empty slopes (some of the steepest in the region) and plenty of state-of-the-art lifts to get you around, the real draw is what awaits at the top of the mountain. First, the Messner Mountain Museum, a stunning contemporary bunker designed by Zaha Hadid. The space is small and will only take you about fifteen minutes to walk through (20 if you’re in your ski boots), but the views and the architecture are a marvel.
Second is the equally impressive Alpinn restaurant, an all-glass structure cantilevered over the top of the mountain, suspending you into sweeping views of the entire Dolemite region. The kitchen is run by Norbert Niederkofler, the three-star chef of the Alpina Rosa Hotel and now the Aman in Venice. When you’re done with your meal walk across the hall and take a quick tour of the second museum on the mountain (bonkers to think that there are TWO separate museums on the top of this peak!!), the Lumen Center for Mountain Photography. Two of their permanent installations are really impressive, especially the huge circular window that opens and closes like a camera lens’s aperture.
THE EATING
Scotoni - see above. Really only feasible for lunch due to its sole accessibility via the slopes.
Alpinn - see above. Ditto about it being only a lunch spot. If they have the onion and trout roe pasta, GET IT!
Hotel Armentarola. The outdoor deck is perfect for a schnitzel and a beer, I can’t vouch for the dinners but considering the lack of options around, if you stay here you may be eating here at night as well. Not the end of the world, it’s tasty.
Bioch On the San Cassiano/Corvara slopes, they have two menus, including one with recipes from the region’s best restaurants. Order a speciality pasta from this menu!!! From the restaurant ski down slope 7 to La Bata, then take the lift up to Pralongia and explore slopes 28 and 25.
Col Alt Also on the Corvara side of the slopes. Make sure to get the pasta with sausage and perhaps a cured meat plate. Skip the carbonara and the desserts.
Punta Trieste. Get the ribs here and ONLY the ribs.
DO NOT GO TO THE FOLLOWING RESTAURANTS: L’Fana Grill, Edelweiss, Las Vegas. Finally, there is a super-fancy restaurant in the Hotel La Perla called Stua de Michele. Imagine if the Madonna Inn in San Luis Obispo tried to charge you $250 for a tasting menu. If you want to revel in the kitsch, go for it, otherwise skip it.
El Camineto at Socrepes
CORTINA
THE SLEEPING
The obvious choice here is the Cristallo, a grand old palace hotel located high above the town with sweeping views of the mountain. Speaking of, make sure to get a room with views of the mountain!!! Also, make sure you book the hotel via this link, because there’s a shitty hotel a half hour away with almost the same name that a bunch of our friends got stuck in. This one’s wood-paneled rooms and suites are all named after the great luminaries who stayed here over the years. A warning though: many of the rooms—and even suites—are tiny. We were in the Nabokov suite the first year, but between its view of the parking lot, the sound of the recycled glassware being smashed at 5am, and the tiny size of the bedroom that made it impossible to open the closets due to their proximity to the bed, it felt more like the Kafka suite.
That said, I see it is also being renovated and turned into a Mandarin Oriental. (Do you sense a pattern here of everyone catching on to how great this region is??). Either hold off a year or reserve the more modern, beautifully understated Hotel De Len. The only tradeoff can also be a bonus: you’ll be right in the heart of town. There are no views to speak of and not much natural light, but you will be one door down from the best winebar in town, a block away from the best spot for hot chocolate, and five minutes closer to the slopes. Not a bad tradeoff, especially as you’ll be out all day anyways.
None of the hotels in Cortina offer ski in-out and the parking lots are a nuisance so rely instead on the complimentary shuttles the hotels run throughout the day.
THE SKIING
Like San Cassiano, there are three different regions here (Socrepes being the most central, Faloria the most overlooked, and Cinque Torri the most far-flung), but unlike San Cassiano, all of them are interconnected via gondolas. In anticipation of the Olympics they have been adding new lifts every year and it is IMPRESSIVE, even as the snow continues to disappear.
As I mentioned earlier, the slopes here are all on the easier side, nothing too challenging. After all, you can’t hit the bumps too hard after a three-course lunch. So instead of breaking down the three areas by terrain, I’ll just launch into the meals. Because this is where Cortina shines and blows away every other resort in the world.
One quick note: the best ski school for the kids (and adults!) with both private and group lessons is Scuola Sci Cortina. Again, book far in advance…
THE EATING
On the slopes…
At Socrepes
Baita Pi Tofana. I actually know someone who’s been coming to Cortina for over twenty years and when he discovered one year that it was being renovated, he canceled his trip. It’s insane. Even if you don’t ski, it’s worth the trip just for this place and San Brite. It’s absolutely tiny, and the deck isn’t that spectacular as you really just look out onto a parking lot. After the renovation the interior was glammed up a bit which takes you out of the romantic charm of the region, but by the time the antipasti arrive, you will be on another planet anyways.
El Camineto This is the ultimate deck to bask in the sun, enjoy a bottle of wine, savor exceptional pasta. It is suuuuch a scene yet happens to have amazing food to boot. This is also one of the toughest tickets in town to score so make sure to book early. As I went to pay inside once I overheard a regular talking up the owner and caught her name. I tried go in two days later without a reservation and said “Maria?”, absurdly hoping to trick her into thinking I too was a regular she simply hadn’t seen in awhile. I don’t speak much Italian, but I think her answer loosely translated to “and who the fuck are you?”
Also, a little pro tip: there are some great lunch spots off the slopes. The only way to get to them is to have a car. As I mentioned, parking in the lots is impossible BUT, there is a secret lot adjacent to the one for El Camineto so come here with your skis in your trunk, hit the slopes, and then jump back in your car for lunch at Lago Ghedina or El Brite.
La Loconda di Cantoniere Culinarily, this is the least interesting of the bunch but the most fun to get to. It is only accessible from the mountain by taking a secret little turn off a slope and gliding stealthily through the woods for ten minutes (there’s very little off-piste in the region so this is the one time you can glide between the trees). It’s a blast. If memory serves, take the first chairlift up, then the second one (The Shark), then the third. At the third, exit left and then stay on the right on Slope 38. Half way down on the right be on the lookout for a tiiiiiny little sign with the restaurant’s name and follow the signs for the next ten minutes. it’s so much fun!!!
At Faloria
Rio Ghere It might not look like much but back in the 50s-70s, this spot was the jam. It’s in the less-populated region of Faloria. I would recommend shuttling (or taxiing) to the restaurant in the morning and skiing the slopes on that side of the road (Son Forca), grabbing lunch, and then spending the afternoon on the Col De Varda side, before taking the Faloria gondola right back to the center of Cortina (where your hotel can pick you up). There’s a great local dish you get here and many other spots that consists of homefries, crispy proscuitto, and sunny-side up eggs. It’s incredible.
At Cinque Torri
Refuggio Averau. This one is a winner day or night. In the daytime you are on the top of the mountain, overlooking the alps, eating a plate of homemade tagliatelle soaked in butter and littered with white truffle, and at night a chairlift takes you half way up while a demented posse of outlaw snowmobilers take you the rest of the way. It’s absolutely terrifying, thoroughly thrilling, and you will either die or claim it was the greatest thing you’ve ever done. Either way, you’ll have a great great meal and a story to share.
Off the Slopes…
Two of the best restaurants in the region are partners, San Brite and El Brite de Larieto. El Brite is the less formal of the two, housed on a working farm that still smells like manure, but the food is out of this world. San Brite meanwhile is worthy of Top 50 in the World status. I don’t want to say anything more than this, but just know that both are some of the most specials meals I’ve ever had.
Lago Gehdina Tucked away in the woods by a frozen pond this place is magical and always abandoned. I can’t figure out why. The food’s great, the setting is fairy-tale-like, everything about it is wonderful. Oh well, guess it’s our secret.
Hotel de la Poste. While I wouldn’t stay here for the night, I would stay here all day on the terrace to soak in the rays and be served a perfect meal by waitstaff in classic white tuxedos. Doesn’t get more iconic Euro than this. Also great for an Spritz after ski.
Enoteca A great winebar in the heart of Cortina, this is the perfect spot to go around 6 or 7pm and order some small paninis before they all sell out, alongside a killer bottle of vino.
Lovat For the best hot chocolate and a delicious bombolini, this iconic pastry shop never fails to disappoint after a tough day on the slopes.
Stay Away from…Al Camin, super disappointing and over-hyped. Magla Federa is another spot where you will be ferried to dinner via snowmobile but Avereau is wayyyy better. Tivoli is fine but I’d sooner go to any of the other spots twice.
Finally, make sure to run through La Cooperativa for all your shopping essentials: food/home/everything, and bring back one of the iconic 70s style shopping bags.
Okay, that’s it. You’re sorted. Yummiest ski trip ever. Have a blast.
HOW TO HIKE UTAH’S FIVE NATIONAL PARKS IN A WEEK
This particular itinerary is neither for the 5-star-only folks out there, nor the nomadic RV-types. It’s right in between, a mix of motels, hotels, and fancy tents.
A few notes before beginning…
This particular itinerary is neither for the 5-star-only folks out there, nor the nomadic RV-types. It’s right in between, a mix of motels, hotels, and fancy tents. I’ve tried to give multiple options for as many places as possible, but a lot of these spots just don’t have that many options! Adapt as you wish…
Similarly, the hikes covered are right down the middle. There are strenuous days, there are easier days, but none of these are casual strolls nor so technical as to require special skills beyond the ability to walk.
I highly recommend grabbing a subscription to All Trails where you can look up all these hikes and others (easier ones, harder ones…), and VERY IMPORTANTLY, download the maps ahead of time! This is crucial when hiking without cell phone reception. The app works incredibly well and between this and overall well-marked trails, you will never be lost.
Additionally, pairing this with an Apple Watch will allow you to keep closer track of distances, elevation gains, and more for better accuracy, knowing when to expect a turn in the trail, etc…
A final purchase a month or so in advance is a National Parks parking pass. You can get one here for $80.
The ideal time of year for these hikes is mid-fall or late spring. Too early in spring and there will be too much snow or heavy mud from the melting snowpack, and too late into the fall and the weather risks becoming too cold/wet. Basically end of April-late May and October are the sweet spots. Do not try this trip mid-summer!!!! And some of the roads to access the parks/trails are closed in winter.
Let’s dive in!
DAY 0 - THE FLIGHT IN
Fly or drive into Vegas. If you’re coming from anywhere other than Los Angeles, take a flight that gets you into town just in time to grab a bite and head to bed early (or conversely an early flight that can have you jump directly into Day 1, below). I prefer hotels without casinos so The Four Seasons and Waldorf Astoria are decent bets, though it’s my firm conviction that there are no great hotels in Vegas.
For an exceptional meal off The Strip, check out the legendary Thai restaurant Lotus of Siam. If you are coming from LA, just start your day extra-early by driving out in time for lunch in Vegas and roll right into tomorrow’s itinerary.
DAY 1 - TRAVEL DAY
If you’re coming from LA, pack a proper cooler, otherwise make sure you have a good thermo-bag, something that can keep a couple bags of ice and snacks cold for a full day.
In the morning go to the Whole Foods on Las Vegas Blvd. and stock up on trail treats and any fresh foods you love. The first couple days before you hit Moab will be rough food-wise and you’ll want some tasty treats that can be kept cool. We stocked up on yoghurts, cheese, cold cuts, berries, and fruit, for a picnic at Capitol Reef (Day 3), but you do you.
From here, drive four hours to Bryce Canyon. Along the way in St. George there’s an exceptional Peruvian rotisserie chicken spot, Viva Chicken, that looks like a chain but tastes like heaven. Alternately, you can hit the Peppermill in Vegas for a breakfast so obscenely large you won’t have to eat for the entire next week on the road.
The sleeping options in/near Bryce are scant. We stayed at the Stone Canyon Inn and while their “treehouses” are fun and offer a great view, the place is NOT great, but rather sufficiently adjacent to the park to pass muster. Their restaurant, the Stone Hearth Grille, is the one “upscale” meal in town. It’s fine.
The best hotel option, which requires up to a year’s planning, is the Lodge inside Bryce Canyon. The rooms aren’t terrific there either but it gets you inside the park and about 100m away from the trailheads. You can’t beat it. And of all the lodges inside all the National Parks of Utah (all of which are run by a service company on par with Best Western), it’s the only one to retain the original structure dating back over a hundred years.
Finally, you can find some Western rococo at the Bryce Canyon cabins...
Sunrise at Bryce Canyon
DAY 2 - BRYCE CANYON
There are two great hikes to do in Bryce Canyon and you should do both. Depending on when you arrived the day before, you could tackle the shorter hike below (Wall Street-Queens Garden) on Day 1 around magic hour and the longer one (Fairyland) today. Or, if you’re game, do both on Day 2. If you park at the Sunrise Point Parking lot near the park’s General Store, you’ll be a stone’s throw from both trailheads.
Wall Street and Queens Garden Loop Trail
As with most of the trails on this trip, you’ll want to start as early as possible to maximize your time in the shade (I’ll keep repeating this throughout).
The Wall Street portion is by far the most stunning and challenging, and it was actually closed for repairs when we hiked it. But even if it’s closed, HIKE IT! There was a bit of deterioration along the path’s final switchbacks, but it’s wholly doable. This is a quick hike, probably done in a couple hours. If you start at 8a, you’ll be done by 10:30 at the latest. Which gives you time to fuel up back at your car, take a break at the general store, and then do the Fairyland Loop Trail.
Do this trail counterclockwise, so from Sunrise Point head left and follow the trail signs. The most beautiful part of this long, tough hike (8 miles, about 4-5 hours at a good clip) will be at the beginning, allowing you to savor the sights with all your energy intact. By the time you reach peak exhaustion at the end, you’ll simply be walking the final two miles on a flat trail along the rim of the canyon at sunset, marveling at all you accomplished below.
For dinner, reward yourself with some decent BBQ in the town of Tropic at IDK BBQ. And for a little side field trip, check out the photogenic town of Panguitch, where you can grab an ice cream cone at the local movie theater and maybe even catch a screening.
Arriving at Capitol Reef National Park
DAY 3 - CAPITOL REEF
Get a good start the following morning and set your sights on Capitol Reef National Park, the most overlooked of the five found in Utah, but a real sleeper hit in our books.
As a side note, if you have time, stay an extra day and night en route here and hike Grand Escalante National Monument. Lower Calf Creek Falls takes leads you through canyons to a stunning waterfall (in springtime). You can spend the extra night in a renovated airstream at Yonder Escalante.
As you drive through sweeping Route 12, make sure to pull over at the scenic overlook to learn the story of how the road was built. And grab a breakfast burrito at Magnolia’s in the tiny town of Boulder. Their converted schoolbus is parked in the lot of the Anasazi Museum. While you wait for your order to be ready visit the museum and the ruins of ancient dwellings.
When you reach Capitol Reef, make a beeline for the Gifford Homestead store, and score one (or many) of their delicious homemade pies. One of the best culinary treats on your trip.
From here, lace up and hike the Cohab Canyon Trail. The first 15 minutes are intimidating but then it plateaus out into a fun, flat little Canyon scramble. You can do a there-and-back jaunt that shouldn’t take more than a couple hours. Return to your car for a lovely picnic with the last of your fresh produce from Whole Foods LV.
It’s now a long dull slog until you make it to Moab, the longest drive beside the one to Zion in a few days. Luckily your few hours in Capitol Reef will have broken up the route.
Heading towards Moab
You’ll be in Moab for the next three nights so choose your accommodations wisely. There are three different ways you can go.
Heart of Town. Moab is a fun town reminscent of a mini Boulder, CO. Many of the towns near National Parks (Bryce, Springdale, etc…) feel like they are built solely around the business of the park. Not so at Moab which feels like an all-around mecca for outdoor types. In the center of town, the Gonzo Inn is a generically-bland motel with great signage, but little else going for it.
If you want the poshest room in the area, head out of town 30 minutes to Sorrel Ranch. We chose not to stay there because it looked a bit contrived. But it’s got great reviews and little cabins (that feel a little overly art-directed), and upon reflection, maybe we should have stayed here…
Middle of nowhere. Ulum Moab feels like a millennial’s Amangiri at a fraction of the price. 50 “luxury” tents with hot showers, flushable toilets, and Aesop products, beds with Pendleton blankets, and quaint wood-burning stoves. All centered around a main restaurant and set a quarter-mile from the picturesque Looking Glass Rock. We stayed here and the tents were the perfect size for a couple, a bit cramped with a kid. The resort is very environmentally “aware” so time your stay here right: in summer the tents will be sweltering, during winter ice cold. We had our woodburning stove lit all night but by 1am it had died down and I was forced to stoke it twice each night, not ideal when you’re exhausted after a nine mile hike. Ask in advance for a tent on the farthest end of the resort, with an uninterrupted view, otherwise you’ll simply be looking out on scores of other tents or the parking lot!
The minimal elegance of Arches National Park
DAY 4 - ARCHES
Besides Capitol Reef, this is one of the easiest (yet busiest) parks to hike. Since the ideal activity is to watch the sun set over the Delicate Arch, spend the day walking through Moab. A few highlights…
Coffee and breakfast at Moab Garage Co.
A burger and milkshake at Milt’s Stop&Eat
The toy and tchotchke aisles at Walker Drug Co.
The donuts at Doughbird
If you need to restock your snack supply, Moonflower Community Co-op
Arches is the only park of the five that requires an advanced, timed parking permit, which can be procured here. Once you’re in the park however, you can stay as long as you like. You could conceivably go crack of dawn and be the first to Delicate Arch and then have the rest of the day free, but we decided to sleep in one day and get into the park in the late afternoon.
You’ll want to be at the Delicate Arch parking lot about two hours before actual sunset. This will allow you one hour to do the hike (it will prob. only take you 45 minutes), and then another hour to take in the view and watch the sun change the rock’s colors. Beware: you will not be alone! This was by far the busiest of all the spaces we visited, a pilgrimage of sorts. One octogenarian who was doing the hike in overalls and without water (both bad ideas) stopped me to say that if I didn’t believe in God, I would after witnessing the arch. He wasn’t too far off the mark.
The park does not close, so while there will be a mass exodus once the sun has set, if you bring headlamps and feel brave, you could always stay to watch the star-filled sky before returning back. You will be the best judge of whether or not you could pull this off while hiking to the arch. Either way, make sure to pack a good headlamp for this one!!
You should have time for at least one other hike before this one and there are sooooo many to choose from. We hoofed it along the Double O Arch Trail to Landscape Arch as this is the most fragile of all the arches and there is a strong chance it won’t last much longer. On the short walk there you will also have the option to branch off and hit a couple other arches including Pine Tree, the only one you can walk beneath. The Double O trail can either be done as a really long loop (6 miles) or just out-and-back as far as you want. The loop area begins right around Landscape Arch.
Driving through Canyonlands National Park
DAY 5 - CANYONLANDS
This park is so big there are three separate entrances and regions: The Maze, Islands in the Sky, and the Needles. The most interesting topography can be found at The Needles down south which is where today’s hike, Chesler Park Loop Trail, is situated. It’s also fully exposed to the sun so again, START HIKING EARLY!!! It’s fairly remote and the longest of all the hikes so plan on at least 2.5 liters of water per adult.
Another reason to start early is to score one of the precious few spots at the Elephant Hill parking lot. The day we arrived—foolishly around 11am (wayyy too late sun-wise)—there were only seven spots left. If you can’t find a spot here, the only real option is to park illegally and get a ticket (they won’t tow you and think of the ticket as a further donation to the parks!).
The first half of Chesler Park Loop Trail is a straight in-and-out through insane rock formations that make you feel like you’ve landed on an alien planet. The first half of the first half is fairly flat and straight ahead but soon you’ll be dropping in and out of the Needle formations, scrambling up and down rocks for an hour or so.
Take a nice long lunch break at the halfway mark when you rise through a pass between the two massive rock formations that greet the entrance to the “park” area. Now you will have an approx. five mile loop ahead of you. If you don’t think you can hack it, just U-turn back, you’ll still have 3 miles before you get back to your car.
If you continue, proceed counterclockwise to start with the most challenging terrain before shooting through narrow slot canyons (check with the visitor center to make sure there are no risks of flash floods!), and finally a dirt road, before returning right back at the two large rocks and hour and a half hike back to the lot.
If you stay at Ulum on this day, you’ll probably be too dead to do anything else but go home and eat something simple before collapsing in bed. If you’re staying in Moab though, reward yourself with a tall one at Woody’s Tavern or pizza at Antica Forma. It’s not Lucali’s, but after today’s hike it will be the best pizza you’ve ever eaten.
The Islands In The Sky region of Canyonlands Park
DAY 6 THE LONG DRIVE TO ZION
The least fun day of all. A five hour drive on the interstate to make it to Zion. If you want one last fill of Canyonlands and Arches, you could tack on a couple hours to the drive and head to the Islands in the Sky region of Canyonlands and do the ten minute Mesa Arch Trail. You’ll be rewarded with sweeping views of the park from above that contrast with the labyrinth down below that you navigated the day before. You could also be crazy and tackle the Shafer Canyon 4x4 trail for some adventurous driving. But remember, you got almost five hours of driving to go.
Finally, just before Islands in the Sky is a turn-off for Deadhorse Point Park, a separate state park that offers beautiful vistas of the horseshoe bends of the Colorado River. It’s just as long a detour as Canyonlands and just as beautiful. I wouldn’t do both though. I wish I could give you suggestions of other things to do along the way to break up the monotony of this day but there’s not that much.
As for lodging near Zion, again the pickings are slim. The main town of Springdale is filled with crappy chain motels and crappier non-chain motels. There are some decent Airbnbs available—like this one—but they book up fast. An impressive new luxury resort, Spirit Zion hadn’t opened yet, but perhaps when you get around to booking this trip it will have. There is a more rugged version of the Ulum tents of Moab called Under Canvas, and if you stay there, insist on Tent #5, the only one with unobstructed views of Zion. You will truly feel all alone in the world watching the sunrise here.
Like Bryce, there is a lodge operated by the park, right in the heart of it. But it sells out about a year ahead of time so if this is your pick (and again, you will be 100m from the trail heads), plan your trip early!!!
Camping on the edge of Zion
DAY 7 - ZION
The lines to get into the park in Springdale and access their parking lot begin EARLY so you’ll want to reach the entrance by 7:30am, which will also come in handy if you are planning on hiking any of the more challenging, sun-facing trails. Most of the good stuff is only accessible via a road that has been closed to the public for some years, so after parking at the visitor center hop aboard a tram to take you to and from the trailhead (the trams are really well run, and arrive every 5-10 minutes). Below are a few trail possibilities.
The Narrows and Subway Trails
Two of the most iconic, thrilling trails in the park. Be VERY careful when planning to hike either of them. Depending on time of year they will be closed due to high water levels and—regardless of time of year—will involve you getting wet (best time for these is in the early fall before the rains). If you want to hike them, reach out to Zion Adventures Company and they will rent you the appropriate gear (drysuit, sticks, etc…) and for an astronomical fee, they can guide you themselves (not required as these are popular hikes that are well-marked). Again, check the day before and day of to ensure that the trails are safe and open before embarking on them.
Kayenta Trail to Emerald Pools
An incredibly short and easy trail that is best done in the spring as the snowpack melts and the waterfalls are at their most impressive, this trail will take you from the 6th stop on the shuttle tram straight to the Zion Lodge/5th stop, while hugging the riverbanks and zig-zagging past stunning little pools of water. A light casual stroll that you could even double up with Scout’s Landing as the two share the same trailhead.
Scout Lookout and Angels Landing
Angels Landing is the only trail in Zion that requires a permit to climb, due to the very narrow path and hordes of people wishing to hike it. You can try for the permit a few months out and there is a last-minute lottery that opens up each day, 24 hours ahead of time. However, it’s good to know that Scout Lookout is the same trail minus the final quarter mile to the Angels viewpoint. Even if you don’t score a pass to Angels, you can continue at the junction to the West Rim Trail and follow that, up to three more miles. After a half a mile you’ll actually be above Angels and have sweeping vista views all around you.
NOTE: this is not the longest trail on the itinerary but it is the steepest!!! If you start much past 9:30/10a you will be in full sun climbing up endlessly. The trail is actually paved which is a bit of a letdown after all the wilderness you will have discovered over the past week, but don’t let that fool you. It’s allllll uphill, with countless switchbacks. And just when you think it’s over and you walk quietly through the narrow canyon that is home to Mexican Owls, you will actually only be half way up the brutally steep climb!
Depending on which trails you hike, and how early you start your adventure, you can jump right back into your car and drive the short distance (2.5 hours) to Vegas and be there in time for a red-eye to the East Coast or the hour flight to LA.
That’s it. You did it. Five of the greatest national parks all in one state, all in one week!
