A Damn Good Guide to Paris
I used to call this list A Complete Guide to Paris. Obviously, it’s not. There’s no complete guide to anywhere. But it is a solid start and packs in enough to do that you’ll be busy for 4-5 days. There’s a mix of touristy stuff and locals-only. But in a town like Paris, there are few secrets anymore so don’t be surprised to hear English in the most hidden of gems, though the best spots really balance the clientele well, others not so much (FWIW, we actually love the FOLDEROL gang and everything they do). Also, note that the “slower” times to come to Paris are mid-October and May. The weather is still nice then and it’s relatively light out in the evening.
I realize the list is long and not organized by neighborhood so at the bottom I’ve mapped out a solid 4 day planning that allows you to dive deep into a different neighborhood each day, avoiding criss-crossing the city.
To get around I recommend two things.
The first is to download and set up the G7 taxi app. They are the equivalent to yellow cabs in NY and are allowed to use bus lanes throughout the city, allowing you to get places up to three times faster than an Uber (like Uber there are different categories of car, you can reserve days in advance, etc…).
The second thing is to download either the Lime Bike or Velib’ app as well. THE BEST WAY to get across town is by bike. I was TERRIFIED of biking in Paris the first few years I lived here, but they have made giant leaps in building out the bike lanes and the East-West axises are great (on the Left bank there is a lane all along the quais while the Right Bank’s Rue de Rivoli has been reduced from four lanes of traffic to one, with two massive bike lanes that run from Concorde to Bastille.
And a few other very important notes…
LOOK UP! Download the Flash Invader app. The legendary Parisian street-artist Invader has spent the better part of the last thirty years affixing small tiled works of art around the city, usually just above the first floor of buildings, usually on their corners, in the style of 1980s video game graphics. An industrious fan set about creating a little game whereby each time you spot one you snap a picture and get points. There’s a leaderboard, but after eight years of hard work, my wife has “only” found 400 out of the 3,000 existing ones!! Once you start you can’t stop, and if you live in a major global metropolis, chances are there are some to be found in your hometown too (we’ve spotted them in Rome, LA, Tokyo, New York, Bangkok, Mexico, and beyond). One note, beware of counterfeits…
LOOK DOWN! There is nothing Parisians love more than their dogs…except leaving behind what comes out of their behinds. In the 1980s the situation got so dire that the local government deputized a squadron of motorcycle-riding poop-vaccuming street cleaners. Things have only gone downhill since…so keep one eye peeled for Invader art, the other eye peeled for doo.
EVERYTHING IS CLOSED SUNDAY AND A TON IS ALSO CLOSED MONDAYS!!! So plan your trip accordingly. If you only have 4-5 days, make it a Tues-Sat. affair.
If you plan on doing some serious shopping bring your passport with you to stores. Every time you spend more than $200 in a shop they will refund you the taxes via a form that you scan at the airport right before checking in for your flight. It takes about ten minutes to do at CDG and you get the cash back right then and there, basically 20% off all your purchases for the trip!
Ok, that’s enough chit-chat let’s get to work. First the list, then the itinerary.
HOTELS
Super-High-End
The best rooms in the city are the Tuilerie-facing rooms at Le Meurice. The hotel is incredibly centrally located and you will be looking out at the Eiffel Tower, Louvre, and Tuileries Gardens. The city’s most famous pastry chef oversees the breakfast/dessert menu, and the concierge can get anything done for you. But if you can’t get a room on the park, it’s not worth the money. Similarly, the rooms overlooking the Seine at the Cheval Blanc are unbeatable, while the others are skippable.
High-End
In the heart of the Marais, facing one of the city’s most beautiful squares, is the new Cour des Vosges which looks exceptional though some of the decor seems a bit heavy-handed (take a look for yourself). Another recco if you’re looking for quiet and understated: the Italian chain J.K. Place has opened up a beautiful little hotel though in a not-so-ideal location. I love taking meetings in the lobby, and the rooms are perfectly appointed.
A Bit More Reasonable
The problem with Paris is that it has eight of the best hotels in the world that are all over a thousand dollars a night, and then nothing until you get to tiny affordable rooms at $250 in weird neighborhoods. Chateau Voltaire is definitely going for the Chateau Marmont spirit and the restaurant at lunchtime is a big fashion hang-out. A notch below price-wise, the Touriste hotel group has a smattering of addresses across the city with affordable rates and great design. But make sure to get their biggest rooms, as the smallest ones won’t have enough space for all the shopping bags you’ll amass!
GALLERIES AND MUSEUMS
Foundation Louis Vuitton. Frank Gehry’s big splash of a monument just outside the city houses the head of LVMH’s private collection along with temporary shows. It’s a bit out of the way but well worth the trek.
Not to be outdone, France’s other fashion oligarch, Francois Pinault, just opened his own stunning museum, La Bourse du Commerce, designed by Tadao Ando. This one is just a few blocks from the Louvre and is absolutely spectacular. It’s a real quick visit and so centrally located you can squeeze it in at any time.
The most anticipated opening of the fall is the opening of Serge Gainsbourg’s home to the public. After being shuttered for thirty years, the house has now been transformed into an audio tour guided by his daughter Charlotte, followed by a space with rotating temporary exhibits. Book wayyyyy in advance as they will only be letting ten people in at a time due to space constraints.
After endless years of renovations, the Hotel de La Marine at Place Concorde is open and it’s a stunning example of the past and the future converging. An exquisite palace that was the former HQ of the French Navy, it was also the site of the largest jewelry heist in the country’s history. Make sure to take the extended audio tour (Le Grand Tour), where instead of boring people droning on about dates and facts, they have produced a top-notch radio-drama that revolves around the theft. Of course available in English!
Across the street from the Hotel de la Marine, inside the Tuileries, is the Orangerie that houses Monet’s water lilies along with rotating temporary exhibits. It takes all of 20 minutes to run through the place but is well worth it as the rooms housing the massive Monet canvases are one of the most special, meditative rooms I’ve ever been in. Book in advance, and if you’re in town a good long while in spring or summer, try taking a day out to Monet’s gardens in Giverny to see the same water lilies for real. Warning, there will be mobs of tourists there.
The Picasso Museum has done a great job of re-defining itself for the 21st century, bringing in a diverse group of designers to overhaul the space every few months. Definitely purchase tickets online in advance.
Another incredible single-artist museum is the Musee Rodin. Ideally go in the early summer with a picnic as the gardens are beyond special, but at any time of the year it’s remarkable to tour the grounds and the incredible home where he spent his final years sculpting.
Musee de la Chasse A quiet gem a couple blocks away from the Picasso museum. Definitely worth a stroll through followed by a crepe at the nearby Briezh creperie.
Perrotin (there are two of them, linked by a secret passageway in the back of the main one that drops you into a little alley facing the other). Paris' biggest contemporary art gallery, stoking the likes of Murakami, Arsham, and plenty more.
A couple blocks away is David Zwirner’s new gallery, which is housed in Yvon Lambert’s old one. Afterwards, stop by the original Breizh cafe for the best crepe in Paris.
Thaddaeus Ropac is another exceptional contemporary gallery where you’ll find everything from Banks Violette to Alex Katz’s latest series.
A bit further away, a few blocks from the Pompidou (which is about to close for renovations), is Templon, a great iconic gallery with two locations, one hidden in the back of a courtyard on Rue Beaubourg, the other a luminous new space a block away on Rue du Grenier-Saint-Lazare.
The Louvre You can buy tickets in advance but either way avoid the line in front of the pyramid to enter. Instead, go through the shopping arcade accessible via the Rue de Rivoli. Once inside, check out a map and head straight to the room containing the "grands tableaux of the 18th Century". it's three rooms in a row that will BLOW YOUR MIND. You can be in and out of the Louvre in 45 minutes if you just check these out along with the Mona Lisa (which honestly isn't that worth it). I also love the Dutch Masters rooms so check that out.
RESTAURANTS
Verjus. Upstairs is Paris' best deal of a tasting menu: seven course for less than a hundred euros while downstairs is a cosy wine bar with some small bites. This place is my favorite go-to in town. It’s the most magical meal you’ll have in Paris in a really special little spot, and a half block down is their other restaurant, Ellsworth where they sling some of the best fried chicken in town. Finally, another half block away is their private supper club, The Twenty-two Club Paris, run out of their stunning apartment overlooking the Palais Royal. Hit them up on DM on Instagram for a reservation and pray there’s an open slot. Just know that 22 is one big table so for a quiet romantic meal, Verjus is the better choice. That said, if you have a crew 6-10 deep, there’s a second private room at 22 that you can book for your whole party.
Verjus’ former head chef Hanz Gueco—an artist in the truest sense—has just taken over a tiny spot called Le Cheval D’Or with whimsical takes on Asian food by way of French classics (think sweet and sour pork tart tatin and shrimp toast croque madame). He’s one of the most exciting young chefs in Paris so if you’re down for something less classic, head over here!
For traditional fish dishes, there is an iconic place deep in the 14th called Le Duc that is like a time warp back to the 50s-60s mid-century design. the food is impeccable, the decor one-of-a-kind, the clientele true Parisians, though the first time we went, John Kerry was a few tables over.
The incredibly talented Pierre Touitou has finally opened his first restaurant, 19 Saint Roch, right in the heart of the 1st. Perfectly-executed, Japanese-influenced mediterranean food await in an elegantly sparse space. It has the laidback feel of eating in your best friend’s kitchen, there is a warmth to the atmosphere and the food alike.
Maison Sota. A bit far-flung in the 11th in a former coffee storage facility, the chef of the legendary Clown Bar opened the most whimsical, elegant, unpretentious, and tasty restaurant in town. The tasting menu ranges from savory french toast amuse-bouches to Japanese shaved ice desserts in summertime. The upstairs communal table is made of a single 24’ piece of wood, and I could continue talking about all the other reasons to go here but instead just book a table and dig in.
You probably think there is an idyllic French bistro on every corner with a great steak frites and cheap bottle of wine, but the reality is that there are only six restaurants in town as perfect as the one you imagine. And yes, they are all over-run by tourists but also cater to classic Parisian clientele. La Fontaine de Mars, Le Bon Georges, the completely unrelated Chez Georges, L’Ami Louis (which requires a bank loan and arterial cleanse) and Le Voltaire are the five that come to mind. All are exceptional but I have a soft spot for Fontaine de Mars and their Île Flottante dessert…
A newly-discovered gem in this classic category is Le Bon Saint Pourçain in the most idyllic locale near the Luxembourg gardens. But with its small 8-table size, make sure to reserve at least 2-3 weeks in advance!!!
Breizh A half Japanese, half Bretagne creperie that is AWESOME. the best crepes in Paris, bar none. There are a few of them around town now, I like the one in the Marais as a little treat post-galleries at an off-hour. Reserve in advance for lunch on the weekends though!
While an abundance of high-quality sushi may be lacking in Paris, there is no shortage of exceptional Japanese restaurants. The best of the lot is at Ogata, where you should book far in advance. The architecture is as stunning as the meal and be sure to arrive early to browse the adjoining store, tea shop, and basement incense lab.
Much more laid-back is Kunitoraya 2, a stripped-down Udon spot near the Louvre and Palais Royal. Start with the salmon+roe onigiri, followed by the chilled noodles and tempura. A great quick meal. No reservations and lines do form but it moves quickly.
In between these two is Yen, a sober soba spot in the 6th that is a favorite for the fashion crowd. Make sure to ask for a table downstairs and order the toro sushi as an appetizer, it’s the best I’ve ever tasted. If they have the figs with sesame sauce, get that too. And don’t overlook the deceptively simple fruit plate for dessert.
While great Italian food is oddly hard to come by in town, we love Le Cherche Midi, conveniently located a couple doors down from the original Poilane bakery and Le Bon Marche. Further out is Dilia, ideal if you are trying to see a concert at the nearby Maroquinerie, this tasting-menu-only italian spot is on a picturesque square facing an impressive Church. Make sure to book a table outside in the warm months...
For the ultimate view of the city, head to Langosteria in the very fancy new Cheval Blanc hotel, or hit up the more lounge-like Bonnie on the water just past the Marais.
if you want one 3 star meal, I’d suggest Arpege. The chef, Alain Passard, was the first to ever introduce an all vegetarian tasting menu at a 3 star establishment, and this was over twenty years ago! Additionally, it’s his only restaurant, so he’s there every day. So many others have outposts in Dubai and Shanghai, chains in hotels and whatnot. This guy is the real deal. Go for lunch it will be cheaper and you can spend the afternoon walking off the 27 courses!!!
Septime If you can, plan ahead and book a table a month in advance, or show up right at noon for a last-minute spot for lunch, you will be in for a real treat. Consistently on the Top 50 restaurants in the world, this is oddly one of the most LA-contemporary spots in Paris though they would never acknowledge this. It’s definitely worth a visit, along with their more informal apps-only bar, Clamato a few doors down.
For a simple pizza and aperol spritz outdoors, check out Bambini on the terrasse of the Palais de Tokyo. It’s not amazing pizza but you get a peek at the Eiffel Tower, a tasty menu, and then a visit to two museums (the Musee de L’Art Moderne is adjacent as well). If you are looking for exceptional pizza, Pepe at the top of the lovely-to-walk Rue des Martyrs is solid. Afterwards, grab a coffee at art-director Yorgo Tloupas’ spot Yorgaki a block or two down. For an even better pie but a less charming environment (great for delivery), there’s Fratelli Castellano or Dalmata.
Cedric Grolet Opera After winning the award for world’s Best Pastry Chef with his work for the Meurice Hotel, Grolet went on to open a bakery/tea salon on Avenue de L’Opera. Beware, this spot—along with its sister donut-and-coffee shop around the corner has sadly succumbed to the Tik-Tok Instagram hype, so book all snacks online ahead to skip (some of) the queue. Or if you are very brave, book a seat at the upstairs tea salon about a month or two in advance and order the best belgian waffle of your life. Or, just go to your neighborhood boulangerie and get a perfectly fine pain au chocolate.
Le Comptoir du Ritz. Not to be outdone, the Ritz has now opened their own pastry shop, on the backside, across from Chanel on Rue Cambon. While the madeleines are the prized treat they talk about most, it is the trompe l’oeil marble pound cake that in my book is hands down the best pastry in Paris (it’s called “entremets marbré” not to be confused with their real marble cake). They claim it’s for two people but I’ve never had trouble polishing one off single-handedly.
If you are looking for baller sushi, look no further than the breathtaking L’Abysse (spring and summer lunch here is idyllic as the gardens that surround the large windows are in full bloom). or Jin. There’s also a more laid back but insanely-well designed newcomer, Shunei.
Amagat Hidden on the backside of a secret alley deep in the 20th, it is about as impossible to find as a restaurant can be, but WELL WORTH THE TROUBLE. They only do lunch on Sundays and I would recommend this as the light is just beautiful and you feel like you’ve taken a drive to the Spanish countryside as endless amounts of perfectly-prepared tapas land on your plate. from croquettes to ceviches, cured meats to fried squid, each one is exceptional. The seafood restaurant Caché shares a kitchen and is equally tasty.
Gyoza Bar In a tiny, magical alleyway/passage in the 9th, it has only one thing on the menu, pan-fried dumplings, but they are OUT OF THIS WORLD. The chef used to have s a 2 star michelin place a couple doors down, and the meat comes from the same high-end butcher, while all the vegetables inside are local, from farmers' markets.
While we still don’t have Din Tai Fung here, Petit Bao is as good as it comes if you’re craving soup dumplings. But if you want really fancy-pants Michelin-starred dim-sum, Shang Palace in the Shangri-La hotel is the best in town.
STORES
Deyrolle The first floor looks like a straight-forward horticulturist outpost but walk upstairs and discover the most insane 19th century taxidermy wonderland. The last room in the back is the best, with hundreds of drawers you can pull open to discover endless varieties of butterflies and beetles which they will then arrange into stunning works of art for you.
Buly A few blocks down on Rue Bonaparte and a half block away from the Seine, this incredible, luxury beauty shop founded by our friend Victoire de Taillac dates back to the 18th century. Soaps, perfumes, toothpastes, candles and more. Like a French version of Santa Maria Novella with better packaging. A second one can be found in the Marais. It was recently bought by LVMH so pick up goodies now before you see the products in every airport around the world!
L’Uniform. A block down from Buly is the new flagship boutique of L’Uniform. Created by the family who owns Goyard and made in the same town in the south of France as their other iconic brand, this line of flawless canvas bags can be customizable down to the last detail, from monograming to choosing the color of the stitching thread. Think of it as the super-fancy version of the iconic LL Bean tote bag…they make several different styles though, from pencil cases to overnight bags...
Merci A very French, chic overview of kitchenware, home decor, and clothing, along with a nice cafe for lunch. A true Paris classic at this point, you won’t find anything ground-breaking but everything is in perfectly perfect, effortless french taste. a block away is their kids shop called Bonton where you can dress your child like a real parisian (though for baby clothes, every real Parisian knows the secret is Monoprix’s—a French Target—line Bout’Chou.
In the Marais area is Yvon Lambert’s exceptional art bookshop which also sells editions and smaller works of art. Three others that I highly recommend are the nearby 0fr, a stalwart in the art community which plays hosts to incredible signings and exhibitions, along with the smaller Delpire&co whose small selection is perhaps the best curation I’ve ever seen, and finally, Karl Lagerfeld’s 7L.
Charvet. Forget Hermes and Chanel, there is no greater luxury in Paris than a pair of suede slippers or custom-tailored shirt from Charvet on Place Vendome. A Paris institution, the ground floor is where you pick up the perfect silk scarf (and slippers), while reservations are needed to visit the second floor’s labyrinth of cloth samples from which they will outfit you with suits, shirts, and more.
Astier de Villate A beautiful, unique and very Parisian china store on Rue St. Honore a block from the Palais Royal.
E.Dehillerin This is the place to go for a copper madeleine mold pan, the best whisk, or if you venture into their cellar, a stock pot large enough to fit a naughty child…
Around the corner from Dehillerin is the city’s charming HQ for ribbon, yard, and fabric, La Droguerie. Right out of a postcard!
A lighter, fresher version of Astier can be found near the Luxembourg Gardens at the picturesque Marin Montagut. Glassware, platters, and curia are perfectly assembled together.
Le Tampographe adjacent to the iconic Pere Lachaise cemetery and only open on Saturdays, this punk rock stamp spot is incredible. The guy who runs it has created hundreds of different art-stamp sets from Eames-influenced to fully X-rated, from ones the size of a thumbnail to complex geometric sets of 20. A great gift to bring home.
If you love jazz records, look no further than Paris Jazz Corner, located across from Paris’ most unique park that was once an coloseum dating back to Roman times!!!
Palais Royal. A beautiful garden and even more beautiful stores surround it! make sure to check out Kitsune, which is right behind the gardens on Rue Richelieu and their cafe right under the arcades, along with Didier Ludot also in the gardens themselves, where you will find a pristine 1950s Dior ballgown next to a 1980 Paco Rabanne metallic dress. The best in vintage, more like a museum!
Another store worth visiting while in the Palais Royal is Maison Bonnet which makes one-of-a-kind eyewear out of real tortoise shell and buffalo horn. Beware, they cost the price of a car and take six months to make but it’s worth visiting despite this! (If you are looking for equally chic glasses that will be ready in two days with a prescription filled, look no further than the beautifully designed boutique Ahlem by Brasserie Lipp).
Another Palais Royal gem is Serge Lutens, one of the city’s most famous, classic perfumeries.
Le Bon Marche-a bit like the Barney's of Paris, but with one lone location, it's an icon and of all the big department stores by far the chicest and most understated. there's a great big food hall across the street (La Grande Epicerie)
Kith this New York-based sneaker temple took over a STUNNING former embassy off the Champs Elysee. They installed a Sadelle’s cafe in there so you can get your fix of bagels&lox and french toast while picking up the latest kicks in the most stunning of decors.
The new Dior flagship on Avenue Montaigne features an impeccably designed museum around the corner which is worth a quick visit, and a lovely, airy cafe inside the actual store.
Canal St. Martin A bit like Venice CA meets Willamsburg, in that there is a canal and tons of super hipster stuff all around, this is a great neighborhood to stroll through, discover tiny boutiques and grab a coffee. Start at Du Pain et Des Idées, and roam around both sides of the canal to discover great little boutiques. For a coffee to help you power through, stop by Ten Belles.
For those that want to visit the flea markets, the best of the lot is at Clignancourt, open just on the weekends. The place is VAST to say the least, an endless maze of small stands reminiscent of Middle Eastern bazaars. But a great starting point (or place for the taxi to drop you off, is Paul Bert Serpette. It has the highest concentration of super-high-end mid-century modern pieces and other gems we’re all on the hunt for. Make sure to book a post-shopping lunch at Bonne Aventure ahead of time, as it is one of the only good spots in this very remote part of town. If you’re just in the market for a beautiful vintage butter knife and not a $17,000 Prouvé chair of dubious lineage, I recommend going to the smaller, more accessible Puce de Vanves where you’ll be sure to score at least one treat that can fit in your carry-on.
COFFEE+DRINKS
Cafe Verlet An iconic, century-old coffee shop that also happens to serve a decent croque-monsieur and French toast. The place has a really nice cozy feel, great to catch up with a friend or have a meeting. Other great coffee shops include Cafe Nuances, Ob-La-Di, and Telescope.
Cravan, an exceptional, understated cocktail bar started in the 16th by a former Chateaubriand barman, has now opened a major space in the 6th a block from Lipp and Flore. Spread over five (!!!) floors, featuring a fully stocked Rizzoli library on one level and a tiny outdoor gazebo for 5 on the roof, with cocktails that veer away from espresso martinis and lean more into the lore of the 1920s, this may be our favorite watering hole. The accompanying small bites menu is as impressive as the rest of the place.
Gainsbarre The most talked-about opening of the year is by far Serge Gainsbourg’s new museum which features a little bar designed by Jacques Garcia. Dark, intimate, sexy, this is the place to end the night.
Toraya A block or two away from the flagship Hermes store on Faubourg St. Honore, this impeccable, Japanese tea salon is the best place for a mid-afternoon pick-me up (their iced green tea is unbeatable. i would just stay away from the super-weird japanese confectioneries). But their bento lunch sets are sooooo good too, especially the crab and avocado one. You’ll need to book a week in advance.
Cafe de Flore a classic, go just for a drink or coffee or a mediocre croque-monsieur (it’s not about the food here). It's funny, it's the only place in Paris that is equally flocked to by tourists and locals. a very rare occurence in any city I feel. And whatever you do, do not go to Les Deux Magots a block away.
Little Red Door If you like cocktails with smoke, simple syrups extracted from wildflowers, and other alcoholic innovations, this is THE place to go, consistently in The World’s Top 50 list in the top ten spots. A damn fine drink to be had here. Pro tip: Don’t try to push the little red door open, it doesn’t. Push the wall to the left to enter.
Chateau Voltaire a new small hotel with a lovely bar that’s just popped up right near the Palais Royal and the Paris Opera House. A nice little scene at night.
Bisou If you just want to dance your ass off, make sure the desire hits on a Thursday, the only day of the week this underground club opens up its door.
FOOD SHOPPING
Our latest obsession is Lastre (Sans Apostrophe), a small little store on Rue de Grenelle near the Rue Cler markets. The man, Yohan Lastre, has won best paté in flaky dough in the world and runner-up of best deviled eggs. Weird, but true, he boasts of it with framed certificates on the wall. There are also a dozen prepared dishes, homemade yoghurts and mousses, tasty baked goods, and so much more. THE BEST DELI IN PARIS. A bit like Cookbook in LA…
One of the only all-organic markets takes place near the Bon Marche every Sunday morning on Blvd. Raspail. Because such a market is so rare it gets PACKED so try to make it there before 9:30 or suffer the hordes!
Les Terroirs de L’Avenir on Rue du Nil. Started by the owner of Frenchie, Guy Marchand, who started buying up the pedestrian street he's on and put in a great organic, local fruit and vegetable stand, fishmonger and butcher which he uses for all his dishes. Really top notch, I’ve cooked entire dinner parties simply from the three stores on this street. This is as close as you’ll get to a farmer’s market in Paris. A quick warning: it is completely unreliable in terms of what products they will have!!!!! It’s best to go there without a menu in mind and just use whatever they have at that moment because they are never sure of having or ordering exactly what you want.
If you like cheese, Fromagerie Quatrehomme on Rue de Sevre (two long blocks from Bon Marche on the opposite side as the pastry shop), is considered one of the best in Paris and they can wrap things up for you to take back to the States! But you should also visit Barthélèmy on Rue de Grenelle which is the most picturesque cheese shop i’ve ever seen.
For ham, you MUST GO to the tiny Caractère de Cochon, off Rue de Bretagne in the Marais. they have close to thirty types of hams, smoked and fresh, that are each more exceptional than the next. My favorites are the ones with rosemary and the one that’s gently smoked with plums. they also have tiny tomatoes the size of pearls of caviar resting in olive oil that make a great accompaniment. Either get the ham by the pound or have them prepare you a sandwich on their super-tasty ficelles (narrow baguettes).
Des Gateaux et Du Pain one of the city’s best bakeries/pastry shops with very little recognition for just how exceptional it is. No world-famous chef with stores in japan, no Instagram crazes, no cookbooks or t-shirts, just the best pastries, chocolate croissants, and bread. But it should be noted that quality of pain au chocolates and croissants has a great deal to do with timing. Even the best ones become mediocre a couple hours after they come out of the oven and similarly, if you properly time your visit to your local boulangerie, the croissants will taste better than anything else in the world. For consistency, I actually feel the 5 star hotels have the best breakfast pastries due to the small amounts the produce and the fact that they bake them close to order time. So head over to the Plaza, Ritz, or Crillion for damn good breakfast bread basket.
For spices, the greatest place i've ever seen is Roellinger on Rue St. Anne by the Palais Royale. They have nine types of vanilla beans, countless peppers, along with my wife's favorite teas and jams.
For butchers, the two best are Desnoyer and Bourdonnec. The former is super far away in the 14th but they deliver and cater to the President amongst others while the latter has outposts right near the Bon Marche and in the 16th on Ave. Victor Hugo.
For wine, I like Legrand in the nearby Passage Vivienne, one of those beautiful covered passage-ways. It's been around for close to a hundred years and was recently renovated to include a wine bar which i personally think ruins the vibe of the place, but the back room is still fairly special…
For chocolate and other baking supplies in large, inexpensive quantities, make sure to go to G. Detou, right off Etienne Marcel, across the street from all the incredible kitchen utensil stores. They also have an annex with cans of fois gras and cassoulet which can easily be brought back to the States.
Our favorite bakery these days is Tapisserie from the folks being Clamato and Septime. There’s one near the Ecole Militaire (Eiffel Tower area) with seating and proper bites to eat, and another a block away from Clamato in the 11th. Their maple syrup tart is beyond as are all their viennoiseries (croissants, pain au choc., etc..).
La Manufacture de Chocolat. This chocolate spot next to Bastille is run by France's most famous chef, Alain Ducasse and has outposts all across the city. The space is amazing, the chocolates even better, especially their bars stuffed with fresh pistachios. But now there’s a younger, cooler indie upstart, Plaq, on the Rue Du Nil that just may be better…
My favorite traditional outdoor market is held Wednesday and Saturdays on Avenue President Wilson, just across the street from the Palais de Tokyo. A thing to note though: Americans come over here and romanticize the produce at the outdoor markets but you should know the following: 80% of this is PURE BULLSHIT. A majority of the food sold in Paris (whether it’s at outdoor markets or grocery stores) has to go through Rungis, a major wholesale hub by the airport. These outdoor markets are not “farmers markets” and the produce you find will consist mostly of strawberries from Spain, avocados from Morocco, and oranges from Italy. That, along with a bunch of shitty non-stick cookware and crappy scarves. That said, a few outdoor markets have 1-3 actual farmers’ stands. At Pres. Wilson, a few standouts below…
Joel Thiebault. this guy provided all the vegetables for Darroze, Gagnaire, Piege, and countless other of the city's three star restaurants. Every week, in addition to countless varietals of beets, shelling beans, and tomatoes, there's crazy wildflowers, plants that taste like oysters, and squash that taste like cucumbers. He was bar none the best in the city if not the country but retired a few years ago, but now his former employees took over the fields. You'll know it's his stand by the long lines that form around it, it’s right at the level of the Palais de Tokyo.
Bar à Patate. this lovely lady specializes in potatoes, onions, and the city's best selection of mushrooms, and she couldn't be sweeter.
The crepe stand. As much as I love Briezh, this fairly innocuous spot 2/3 of the way up the market is my favorite street-run spot in the city!!!
***A FULL FOUR DAYS IN PARIS***
DAY 0 - Arrival
Arrive at Hotel
If you want to stretch your legs and the weather’s nice, head to the Tuileries Gardens, make your way down the adjacent pedestrian bridge, cross to the Left Bank and stroll along the Seine for a few bridges, catching the most iconic one, the Pont Alexandre III.
Dinner At Fontaine de Mars
DAY 1- The Marais
Breakfast at hotel or reserved in advance at Cedric Grolet
Gallery Visits: Perrotin, Zwirner, Thaddeus Ropac, Templon
Shop at Librairie Lambert and Castor Floriste
Lunch+Shopping at Ogata
Shopping at Merci
Visit either the Picasso Museum or the Musée de la Chasse
Snack at Briezh creperie
Dinner at Le Duc
DAY 2 - The Left Bank
Breakfast at Tapisserie by Ecole Militaire
Walk past Eiffel Tower (if you want to go up the Eiffel Tower I suggest booking the Jules Verne restaurant at the top. It’s a pricey affair but it allows you to take a private elevator up and not deal with lines/crowds)
Visit the Rodin Museum and Gardens
Lunch at Le Recamier for soufflés, Le Cherche Midi for Italian, or for a 3-star treat, Arpége.
Walk off lunch in the Luxembourg Gardens.
Shopping at Le Bon Marche, the Hermes two blocks away, including the exclusive Petit H collection only available at this branch in the 6th
Shopping at Deyrolle, Buly and L’Uniform, and the myriad of elegant furniture shops along Rue des Saint-Peres/Lille/Université.
Visit Serge Gainsbourg’s house.
Grab a drink at Cravan.
Dinner at Le Bon Saint Pourçain, Le Voltaire, or Yen for something lighter.
DAY 3 - The Right Bank
Quick tour of the Louvre (see my tip for getting in-and-out in 45 minutes)
Even quicker tour of Bourse de Commerce/Pinault Collection
Lunch at Kunitoraya
Stroll around Palais Royal (shop at Serge Lutens, Mason Bonnet, Kitsune)
Walk Rue St. Honore/Fbg. St. Honore
Shop at Astier de Villate, Saint Laurent, Cafe Verlet, Charlotte Chesnais, Chanel (Rue Cambon), Charvet (a must!!), Louis Vuitton, Hermes Flagship, Comme des Garçons
Mid-way pastry stop at either The Ritz Hotel or Cedric Grolet Opera.
Visit L’Orangerie Museum for Monet’s Water Lilies
Dinner either at Verjus or the private room at 22 Club overlooking the Palais Royal
DAY 4 - Fleas and Canals
Early morning, run to the flea market at Clignancourt (Paul Bert Serpettes) or Vanves and spend a couple of hours roaming the alleys
Head back towards Bastille and grab some oysters and a glass of wine at Clamato or stick around Clignancourt and book at table at Bonne Aventure.
Roam around the Canal St.Martin, starting at Du Pain et Des Idées on Rue de Marseille, and criss-crossing the canal and the little streets around it.
Walk the Buttes de Chaumont park.
Dinner at Mason Sota or Cheval D’or.