When you think food capitals of the world your mind probably goes to Paris, New York, Rome, Copenhagen, and Tokyo. Well, your mind is wrong. Mexico City is the most fun your palate will ever have.

And where else can you hang out in Diego Rivera’s kitchen before sliding down the backside of a Dragon-shaped home, visit ancient pyramids in the morning and take in a James Turrell installation in the afternoon, throwing back mezcal all day and churros all night. It’s THE PERFECT CITY. Also, it’s the closest trip from the US that will make you feel a million miles from home without any jet lag in just a couple hours’ flight. So buckle up, let’s trip.

But first, a quick note about getting around…

I’d steer clear of local taxis while in Mexico City as a couple dear friends have had some unpleasant problems with them. Instead, rely on Uber, or better yet reach out to Rodrigo Martinez, an excellent driver, and book him for your entire stay. It’s a (very) small price to pay for the ultimate convenience. Beyond taking you around town, Rodrigo is a great translator, and incredibly safe driver. I’ve also never met anyone who takes greater pride in the maintenance of their vehicle. I couldn’t recommend him more. But a side note: if he is unavailable and offers you another driver, you may get stuck with someone who doesn’t speak English as some friends have. So make sure it’s Rodrigo, otherwise have your hotel arrange a car which may be a bit more expensive but still a good deal.

Rodrigo Martinez +521 5539757985

HOTELS

Small, intimate, and great design…

Casa 9 A stunning, tiny hotel (maybe only 10 rooms or less!) that feels right out of a West Village modernist townhouse profile in AD.

Ignacia Guest House Another beautiful smaller boutique option that feels more like an apartment than a hotel.

Two others that I don’t know personally but look incredible are Octavia House and Casa Polanco.

Big, fancy, and fully of amenities…

Ritz-Carlton The newest mega-tower hotel in town, if you want a gleaming, state-of-the-art business hotel, this is the one. The St. Regis is in need of a bit of an update at this point.

Four Seasons A more classical option,, it is designed in classic Mexican architecture. It’s a bit dusty but you get the 4 Seasons level of service and a damn good bar.

MUSEUMS

Museo Anahuacalli Not to be confused with Rivera’s home studio, this stunning museum space, inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright’s architecture, houses Rivera’s personal art collection along with a rotating series of contemporary shows.

Casa Wabi An architectural contemporary art space designed by Alberto Kalach, that has a Tadao-Ando-esque minimalist grandeur. It’s a bit out of the way but worth the trek! (PS. make sure to book tickets for the branch in CDMX and not Puerto Escondido!!).

Frida Kahlo’s Home Make sure to book tickets well in advance as it sells out quickly.

Diego Rivera’s Studio A fascinating quick visit, the studio’s principle space and adjacent bedrooms are restored to the way they were close to a hundred years ago, while another floor hosts temporary exhibits.

Cuadra San Cristóbal Don’t be fooled by the Casa Luis Barragán (decent) or the disappointing Giraldi House, you want to visit the stables this iconic Mexican architect designed just out of town. Get your hotel to organize it far in advance as it can be tricky to reserve, you may have to go through a third-party tour group but it is well-worth it. You can also reach out directly here.

Jumex CDMX’s version of MoMA, it’s a great space, has great shows though for the most part they are international ones that travel elsewhere (Baldessari, Warhol, etc…). So perhaps this shouldn’t be highest on your list. That said, there’s a lovely Eno brasserie outpost for a quick bite. It’s also adjacent to Carlos Slim’s Soumaya Museum which is fine for an instagram shot from the outside, but the collection is so bland it’s not worth five minutes on the inside.

Teotihuacán Pyramid Ruins Not as awe-inspiring as the pyramids found throughout the Yucatán Peninsula, they still make for a special morning visit, especially when running around with kids. Try to get here as early as possible. I think they open at 9am, show up at 8:45 so you can be the first to lay your eyes on the Pyramid of the Sun, before it’s cluttered by tourists huffing their way up. The best bet is to get a private driver to take you from town and wait for you as you race through the place. No need to visit the adjacent museum, the anthropological one in town is way better. You should try to be in and out of the pyramids by 10:30 so you can be back in town for lunch.

Museo Nacional De Antropología This is their Museum of Natural History. After visiting the pyramids it’s a wonderful opportunity to understand the various cultures and eras of indigenous people along with the art they created over centuries. The place is exceptionally well-laid out with the path taking you from interior exhibits to exterior gardens dotted with massive ruins. If you are short on time, you only need to do the entire ground floor and skip the second one.

LAGOALGO a new space in a modernist structure beside a lake in Chapultepec Park, features the best in contemporary artists alongside a little spot for a bite to eat.

SHOPPING

Tetelán Housed in the former stables of a Barragán home and suspended over a glass floor that looks onto the natural lava rock beneath, it’s a lovely restaurant and a perfectly selected choice of contemporary homeware and clothing. Yes, it’s a bit out of the way but worth every minute to get there as the shopping was some of the best I found in the city.

Utilitario You wish there were a dozen places like this in town, but sadly there are only 2-3. Ignore the fact that they sell Dr. Bonner’s soap, and instead pick up a locally made comal to cook tortillas back home, a classic mortar and pestle, or just funky hand-dyed socks and scarves for prices that are more Muji than Alessi.

Onora One notch higher-level than Utilitario bust sadly half the size, the house-wares here are stunning and all made by artisans across Mexico.

Fabrica Social/FonArt- Same deal, locally hand-woven tops for women that crosses classic with contemporary Mexican style.

OMR Gallery - The Emmanuel Perrotin/Gagosian of Mexico City, they have shows of local up-and-comers like Gabriel Rico and also sell pieces by heavy-hitters like James Turrell and Candida Höfer.

Adhesivo Contemporary The wonderfully ebullient Edith Vaisberg runs this great gallery that, along with spots like Trastienda, is helping champion a new generation of Latin artists.

Headquarter - if you want to feel like you’re back in a State-side streetwear/skate shop, this is your spot.

Xinú A stunning perfume store.

MARKETS

Mercado de Artesanias La Cuidadela This one is the most famous and easily the one you can skip. It’s the same inauthentic tacky crap that you find the street peddlers at the Pyramid Ruins hawking. That said, if you need a Lucha Libre mask to bring home as a gift, feel free to spend twenty minutes here. Also skip the Mercado Sábado in San Angel which feels like a more upscale but equally contrived version of this one.

Mercado Jamaica The best market we hit, it’s 85% a flower market, 15% food/pinata/tons of other stuff. A real sight to behold. And the food felt more locally sourced than the more famous San Juan market (below).

Mercado San Juan - the food market everyone goes to. That said, you can’t help but wonder if the chocolate-dipped scorpions are there more as dares for the tourists than actual food for the locals. Still, a couple spice stands and an iconic coffee spot make it an important destination.

Mercado Sonora - from what I hear this is the most authentic of all the markets but also a bit on the dangerous side. If you choose to go, you should go with a guide of some sort.

EATING

BREAKFAST/LUNCH

Mulino El Pujol If you can’t score a reservation to Pujol, the most famous and decorated restaurant in Mexico City, make sure to visit El Mulino, their neighborhood tortilleria, where they crank out fresh tortillas for the locals and AMAZING breakfasts for everyone else. The churros are some of the best in town and the simple avocado or cheese tacos and quesadillas are exceptional. Wash it all down with cacao-infused water or a coffee.

Rosetta At first sight the pastries feel more European than Mexican, but their conchas and guava danish are really delicious. Worth picking something up while you stroll through the Roma neighborhood. They also have a more formal restaurant across the street that serves a lovely lunch in a sun-filled atrium.

Quentin A small chain (maybe 3-4) of well-designed coffee shops, a bit like their Intelligensia. They bake all their own pastries which are just as good as the coffee.

El Cardenal Make sure to go to the one downtown as there is now another in the suburbs. The original is a true classic, from the room to the menu. The food isn’t groundbreaking but it’s delicious and a perfect time capsule of another era.

LUNCH/DINNER

Expendio De Maiz (cash only) All I can say is THIS PLACE IS INSANE! Only open for lunch (it closes at 5pm), and only 4 tables, it’s essentially an open kitchen tucked into a gutted storefront. From here, some of the most creative dishes I’ve ever eaten get churned out one after another. There’s no menu, it’s basically mexican omakase, and each plate is better than the next, all centered around ancient varietals of corn and grain. Can’t recommend this place enough. Go on the earlier side to avoid a wait.

Maximo Bistro One of our favorite meals in town, it would be right at home in Venice Beach or the 11th arrondissement in Paris. Fancy without being pretentious, the food feels more continental than Mexican, but it is a really really special evening.

Contramar Another must, this mecca of seafood—along with Pujol— put the Mexico City restaurant scene on the map. It’s a bustling bistro that feels a bit like Cafe Flore in Paris due to the non-stop cavalry of black-vested waiters. The two absolute must dishes are the tuna tostadas to start and the whole grilled fish as a main course, which I recommend getting done 50/50 (half parsley butter coated, half red chile marinated). So so good…Skip the desserts though and make sure to reserve far enough in advance that you can be seated in the original space and not their new addition.

Rosetta This is what happens when an incredibly talented Mexican chef tries her hand at Italian food. It’s adventurous, tasty, and a bit spicy! A stunning space, it’s a really lovely meal across the street from her famous bakery and coffee shop.

Pujol If you can get in, GET IN. Try through your hotel, the website, by phone, any way. It is a beautiful trip through all the various regions of Mexico, from the perspective of the country’s most ground-breaking chef. If I’m not mistaken the bar is reserved for walk-ins and forgoes the classic tasting menu for a taco one (there may even be a separate reservation page under Omakasa Tacos Pujol). And if all else fails, go to his taco bar/lounge Ticuchi. However, you should definitely skip his incredibly ordinary Eno neighborhood restaurants. The one at the Jumex is fine for museum food but the others are all passable.

Quintonil - Another World’s Top 50 restaurant. delicious, light, mixing deep Mexican heritage with contemporary cuisine. If you were to choose one, I’d still pick Pujol, but for a special lunch, this spot is absolutely lovely.

Meroma Not particularly Mexican, it was nonetheless one of the best meals we had in town. Would feel right at home in Highland Park.

DOWN AND DIRTY

Taquería Los Cocuyos There are a million little street stands for tacos in this town, but for some reason, this one is the one people have crowned the best. The tacos are damn tasty but if you aren’t feeling overly adventurous steer clear of the ojo (eye) and get the suerde (like carnitas) or longaniza.

El Califa This may be a chain but you know what, so is Magnolia Bakery, Zankou Chicken, and the Aman. For a KILLER al pastor taco and local beer at any time of day or night, this place does NOT disappoint. That said, don’t steer too far from these classics as the rest of the menu can be a bit standard.

La Bipolar and Los Tres Reyes - Go to either of these on Sundays for barbacoa.

El Parnita A beautiful little cafeteria. Order the quesadillla con chicharon/queso/nopales or calabaza/huitaloche.

ACTIVITIES

Casa Organica and Parque Quetzalcóatl Casa Organica, the vision of groundbreaking, psychedelic architect Javier Senosiain, will forever be in the top ten experiences of my entire life. The on-going Parque project is just as special, but sadly as of this writing both are closed to the public (but it’s worth emailing Fernando to see if he can arrange something). If a tour isn’t in the cards, don’t be disappointed as you can actually stay in a third Senosiain space, El Nido De Quetzalcóatl. Book far far in advance—in fact plan a whole trip around this stay—it will be the most special trip of your life.

Walking around Coyoacán A bit far-flung but possibly my favorite neighborhood. Not necessarily for food/shopping/museums, but just the vibe of the place, the architecture, the peaceful tranquility of the streets. While you’re there though, make sure to grab coffee at Café Avellaneda, which is further away from most of my favorite streets and plazas (sip your coffee in the nearby Fuente de Los Coyotes Park) but worth it for the high-quality roast.

Roma/Juarez/Condessa The three more central neighborhoods worth strolling through, they feel like Palmero in Buenos Aires, the West Village, parts of Brooklyn. Plenty of shops/coffee joints/etc…many of which I’ve already talked about throughout here. Plot out a few of the stores and galleries you want to visit and then stroll between them, discovering new surprises along the way.

Lucha Libre You really do have to do one match of this folkloric Mexican wrestling, a trip wouldn’t be complete without. Part theater, part circus, all pageantry, the matches are held Friday nights, last two hours, and you can easily go for one hour, have a couple cheap beers, and get your fill.

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