FAR FROM THE MADDENING CROWDS OF KYOTO
If you happen to be in a somewhat similar social media algorithm as me, you are probably being bombarded with daily (or hourly) stories of friends having a grand time in Japan recently, coupled with airlines, hotels, and mid-level influencers you’ve never heard of telling you just how grand a time you can have there. Which makes me feel somewhat ashamed to be contributing to the noise but here’s the thing: all their tips are lousy. I, on the other hand, promise to only give you the really good stuff. Especially when it comes to Kyoto, a smaller city that is currently suffering from a massive influx of insufferable people. Which we are not. Right?
So…here’s how to plunge headfirst into the heart of one of the busiest tourist meccas in the world while still feeling far from the maddening crowds. And please, whatever you do, DO NOT SHARE THIS LIST. This one’s just for me and you.
thank you.
PS. A quick note on time of year to visit: Anything remotely near Cherry Blossom season (March-April) is a definite no-no as that is peak tourist time. I would avoid the summer due to the absolutely brutal heat and humidity. Fall is magical but can also experience a surge of crowds for the stunning fall foliage. But if you time it right, you could have a great time in May or mid-September with a minimum of mobs.
GETTING HERE
The best thing to do is to whisk up here from Tokyo on a lovely bullet train ride. Either grab a bento box at Sushi No Midori (order it online in advance), or at the station be on the lookout for the super fancy, pre-packaged box from the master himself, Jiro. Yes, to Japanese people it may be the equivalent of a Wolfgang Puck-signed airport meal, but to Western suckers like myself, it’s probably the closest we’ll come to actually visiting the fabled sushi counter.
On the return you can either grab an hour-long taxi to Osaka and fly back from there, or just head back to Tokyo for a round-trip flight. Osaka itself is a perfectly fine city, but not worth more than a day’s detour…
WHERE TO STAY
Kyoto being a city steeped in the ancient tradition and rituals, it only makes sense to stay in a hotel that channels this spirit. There are two legendary ryokans in the heart of town that actually face one another, both over three hundred years old, both still run by the original families who started them. The Tawa-Raya is slightly smaller and discrete (as you can see from the link, no website, no way to book online), with the larger rooms offering mid-century-esque living rooms, while the Hiiragiya has two wings including one from the 90s that balances East and West. I’ve stayed in both places and while I would try for the Tawaraya first, the two are exceptional. We recently stayed in Charlie Chaplin’s room at the Hiiragiya that featured a two hundred year old painted mural and access to our own private garden. Pretty unbeatable. As is the neighborhood. Within a block of both inns you’ll be in the heart of all the cool shops, from North Face Purple Label and Human Made outposts, to centuries-old wagashi and paper shops.
If you’re looking for something a touch more modern, The Shinmozen across the river is the 2025 version of these two institutions. Impeccably designed, its main flaw is it is in the epi-center of the touristic hordes, so while the room itself is the embodiment of tranquility, stepping out of the hotel is anything but. Also the Jean-George-run restaurant may be tasty, but lacks the authenticity of the two other hotels (where you should definitely dine one night in your room for a full experience).
TEMPLES & OTHER SITES
There is one incredible simple but exhausting trick to avoiding the crowds around town: waking up at the crack of dawn and doing all things touristy before 8am. The only problem with this is that many touristy things open at 9. But it is good advice if you don’t mind just strolling around the grounds of certain busier temples, like the Kiyomizu-dera or Kinkakuji. In this case, honestly, go around 6:30 and you’ll have the places to yourself. The former is really the grande dame of Buddhist Temples and probably worth the early call time.
One thing that is definitely not worth the massive crowds is the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. I mean, it’s fine, but it is so littered with people, so cordoned-off, and so brief a walk that despite its notoriety as the densest bamboo forest in Kyoto (or Japan?), you’ll be better off strolling around elsewhere. Look online, there are some other spots that are recommended, I for one can’t vouch for any. Oh and another totally forgettable tourist trap? The Philosopher’s Path. What was surely a special stroll fifty (or five) years ago, nowadays looks more like a people-mover at O’Hare.
Conversely, Sanjūsangendō Temple, aka the The Hall of 1,000 Buddhas is perennially packed to the gills and nevertheless an absolute wonder. The name speaks for itself: a hundred yard-long hall filled with a thousand identical golden statues of the Buddha. Except they aren’t identical. Because each one was carved by hand, by one of eighty artisans tasked with the job. It’s overwhelming, bewildering, and simply breathtaking. No matter when you come here you will be subsumed by screaming buses of schoolchildren and wheezing buses of American octogenarians breathing heavily behind you as you try to find a single moment of inner peace. Which you won’t. Honestly, it’s the only place that’s mobbed that I recommend. And much like Ryōan-ji below, if you get there right when it opens, you may get a moment or two of magical solitude.
Ryōan-ji This place is one notch down in the touristic pilgrimages, but I would still arrive there fifteen minutes before it opens to ensure you are the first through the gates. There aren’t massive lines even in peak seasons, and there are no advance tickets to be had. What there is however, is one of the most special visual experiences of your life. The rock garden in this monastery is a UNESCO World Heritage site, renown for its unique design: the garden features fifteen stones dotted across the space, but only 14 can be seen from any one vantage point. Once you reach nirvana (total enlightenment), it is said you can see all fifteen at once. It apparently took my twelve year old son seven minutes to find an angle that shows off all of them. Not sure what to say. However, getting here early allows you to truly be alone in front of the garden, offering you a meditative experience that dissipates once the first tour buses creep in a half hour later.
One last note, as inspiring as the rock formations are, if you turn around 180 degrees, you’ll see the most INSANE dragon murals that look like the birth of manga. Also on the property, a canteen serving the same vegan repast that the resident monks enjoy. If you arrive later in the day, definitely stop in for this meal, to be enjoyed with sweeping views of the gardens and pond.
Shinshō Gokurakuji Temple This is one of those tips that I’m reeeaallllly reluctant to give because it’s super off-the-radar and oh-so-special. When you walk into the complex, the place feels shuttered down and abandoned (especially if you get there around 9am which we did). In fact, all the doors to the temple are closed and there are few signs to point you in the right direction. But if you’re as daring (or arrogant/nosy) as me, you’ll walk right up to the doors and pull them open. Inside you’ll find a lonely attendant waiting to sell you a ticket. Poke around the darkened temple before heading outside, swapping your shoes for slippers, and walk under the long covered walkway until you arrive in a building looking out onto multiple private rock gardens that you will have all to yourself. Perhaps it was just the lack of crowds, but this was by far one of the most special experiences we had in town.
Speaking of secret, special treats, another highlight of our past trip was a private tea ceremony within the Kenninji Ryosokuin temple. The grounds of this complex are both sprawling and littered with tourists, but if you reserve ahead, you can escape the masses and find yourself in a beautiful garden all to yourself, listening to birds flutter while matcha is whisked by a tea master in a two hundred year old pavilion. A quick warning: this is not an inexpensive affair, nor is it an easy one to book, and it may require the help of a very dedicated concierge. But it’s worth it.
Just as secretive a spot, the hidden moss gardens of Saihoji are some of the most stunning in the world. Beyond visiting the grounds—which you should book a month or two before your visit—there are also comprehensive meditation programs that are well worth exploring.
While the masses make the obligatory pilgrimage to the Imperial Palace, milling about the grounds in their pasty skin and Ex-Officio safariwear, wondering why you can’t look inside the buildings, you will make the wiser choice to “apply” in advance (maybe a few weeks) for a visit to the Katsura Imperial Villa, and be mesmerized by some of the most impeccably designed gardens you will ever see. While Versailles is all about symmetrical structure and order, the designers of this nearly five hundred year old garden wanted you to discover something new at each turn, so that as the hour-long tour progresses, you are constantly awed by new sights. Planning this one ahead means physically printing out your invitation and bringing your physical passport. It’s a whole thing. But then again, there’s very little in Japan that isn’t.
SHOPPING
I may be going out on a limb here, but I think the shopping in Kyoto may best that of Tokyo. For starters, there’s less sprawl and therefore greater concentration of greatness. And when it comes to traditional crafts—whether it’s paper or ceramics, tea or wagashi, Kyoto just always seems to come out on top. So if you’re coming from Tokyo, please make sure to leave plenty of room in your suitcases. Or pick up a sick new bag at The North Face Standard, which is anything but—they stock several Japan-only lines of the brand that are really reallllly cool.
For centuries, Kyoto was the capital not just of the country but of karakami, a style of paper in which wooden engravings are dyed and pressed onto the paper. There were once hundreds of studios that created these intricate works but now, less than five remain, and Karacho is the most prestigious of lot, remaining in the same family for over three hundred years (are you sensing a pattern here?). Their work can be seen in the Imperial Palace and countless temples and even some of the more upscale hotels in town. Their showroom is open by appointment only and features not just wallpaper and screen doors, but an assortment of lampshades and other decorative pieces. This is a special one.
Existing only a mere hundred and fifty years (a relative new-comer in Japan-speak), Kaikado’s copper tea canisters are minimalist works of art, with just enough whimsy found inside to make them the perfect gift to bring home. The custom engraving on the matching scoops is a lovely little touch and you can store anything in these containers, not just tea (hint hint).
Just down the street from Kaikado may be my new favorite clothing store, Yamatomichi. While everyone in the West continues to gush about Arcteryx (myself included admittedly), THIS is the best designed mountain clothing out there. Their pants are the lightest, toughest, most comfortable I have ever tried anywhere. The space itself is beautiful too, and when you leave it is with a heavy heart, knowing that nothing back home will ever rival this.
I’m definitely dating myself here, but remember how cool Moss was in Soho in the late 90s/early 2000s? Well…Sfera is Kyoto’s Moss. Exceptional home design products, but rather than being culled from around the world, everything here is local. And really nice. They don’t have much, but what they do have is what you want…down to the most beautifully polished wooden dog food bowls.
EATING
While Kyoto seemingly has more Michelin-starred restaurants per capita than Paris, most of these spots have ten seats or less, making a dinner reservation in this town one of the hardest in the world. Most of the higher-end eateries work off a lone reservation platform, myconciergejapan.com that removes some of the magic from the whole process. But if you plan accordingly, you’ll be able to score a couple truly unforgettable meals. Definitely try to book Tempura Kyoboshi off this site, or Godan Miyazawa, a 1-star kaiseki-style dinner that is really special.
And while I failed to nab a seat last time, everyone has told me that the pizza/omakase at Monk is as incredible as the hype that surrounds it. If you’re here a few nights, sure, def. devote one to this, at the very last it’s a fun story to share!!
Fuyacyou Ichizersan The most unexpectedly fun meal in town can be had in a tiny room in the rear of a hallway in the back of a nondescript office building. It’s here that a very smiling man in a polka-dot tie greets you into his humble diner and treats you to whatever you’re in the mood for. Had a big lunch and just want an omelette? Sure. Your son’s a picky eater and really tired and simply wants some soba? He’ll take care of him. Are you in the mood for a really tasty Kobe steak? He’s got you covered. A true one-man-show, this place requires a reservation (via DM) not because it’s sold out every night, but rather because it’s so under the radar, you may be the only ones in there and he’ll open up just for you. So unique, so fun, SO. DAMN. GOOD. Added bonus: no fucking influencers next to you.
While an hour-long tea ceremony is an incredibly special ritual that will stay with you for the rest of your life, what about a little pick-me-up when you’re racing around town. Lord knows there’s an endless amount of choice in where to grab a matcha-to-go, but if you want one accompanied by the tastiest little snack around, head over to Totaro and grab a drink and a serving of their chewy little mochi-like balls drenched in fresh strawberries, more matcha, or any other topping they are currently dishing out. It’s a bit out of the way but the good news is it’s only a five minute walk from that incredible hiking store and tea canister shop.
Somewhere between the other two tea options lies Ryurei Sabi Tea Room, a few blocks from Sfera. An exceptional place to sample traditional japanese wagashi treats alongside a cup of tea. If you’re looking to bring the experience back home however, make sure to go to Ippodo Tea to purchase the finest ceremonial grade matcha (you can also savor a cup there and even take a quick course on properly brewing it).
Lastly, it would be remiss if I didn’t mention the massive Nishiki covered food market. Yes, it is peak tourist trap, but there are also TONS of tasty confections and the whole thing runs parallel to the dozen blocks that hold the city’s best shopping, so do stop in and find yourself a treat. Every once in a while it’s good to rub shoulders with the masses and you’ll feel so much better than them, knowing you’ve just come from the best temples, stores, and strolls that they will never know about.
