A MILANESE LAYOVER
Is Milan destined to be your next big trip? Probably not, unless you’re a buyer for a luxury department store in Dallas. But, if you’re planning an alpine adventure in the Dolomites or a romantic getaway on Lake Como (or my recommendation of the lesser-known Lago Maggiore), I strongly recommend a two day layover in Milan. From amazing undiscovered centers of contemporary art to (arguably) the world’s first fashion concept store, it’s the perfect dose of cosmopolitan energy before you spend a week lollygagging in the mountains or at your friend’s rich aunt’s lakeside villa.
Apologies for this being such a short list compared to other cities, but the good news is that this can all be done in a solid day and a half before you dive into your next proper vacay.
WHERE TO STAY
3 Rooms Corso Como - The most straight-forward hotel room name of all time, the three suites that share a courtyard with the iconic shopping mecca feel straight out of a 1980s Wim Wenders fashion documentary. The vibe is a bit dated but in the best possible way. Think of it as the most fashionable Airbnb of all time.
Bulgari Hotel - I’ve already extolled the virtues of the Rome outpost and I’ll do it again for this one. Beyond the best shower I’ve ever experienced in any hotel (or home), the elegantly minimalist rooms feel like sets from Succession. Understated opulence exudes from every travertine surface and kids will love the endless jars of Haribos strategically placed by the elevator bays. The rooms are small and the price of a tailor-made suit, but for two nights it’s the perfect place to play make-belief.
THE ART
Yes, the original Last Supper can be found gracing the wall of the nondescript refectory of a nondescript church, but I would skip this overburdened tourist trap and head to the outskirts of town and the countryside for two exceptional contemporary art gems.
The first is Villa Panza, one of my favorite museums anywhere in the world, in no small part because of its impressive collection of James Turrell, Dan Flavin, and Robert Irwin installations (the foundation recently sold a few of their permanent installations but there’s still plenty left). Juxtaposed against an 18th century Italian mansion, all the contemporary works leap out against the ornate moldings and architecture. There are also sprawling gardens dotted with whimsical sculptures, and hit-or-miss temporary exhibitions. The story of how the quiet couple acquired their collection starting in the 1950s is fascinating, worth reading about as you tour the property.
The second destination is the Prada Foundation, a mix between the MASS MoCA and the Guggenheim. An impressive permanent collection, exceptional temporary shows, and a wonderful café designed by Wes Anderson (complete with a Life Aquatic pin-ball machine!), you’ll have enough Instagram content for a week by the time you leave…
A tenth the size with possible ten times more art, the incredibly intimate Casa Museo Boschi di Stefano is in the heart of the city, a former residence of two fanatic art collectors, finally opened to the public some twenty years ago. The visit feels incredibly private and personal, like you are peeking into the actual lives of the couple who once lived here. A really special little treat.
Finally, there is the massive Pirelli Hangar Bicocca, an overwhelming former warehouse that now allows for installations that very few other institutions could house, including a permanent work by Anselm Keifer that looms over viewers like towering nightmares.
THE SHOPPING
From the fringes of town you can then race right to the center and discover the first-ever Prada store at the center of the breathtaking Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the cathedral-like indoor/outdoor shopping mall adjacent to the actual Cathedral (the Duomo) that anchors the city’s tourist industry. But I would skip the Duomo and instead venture a few blocks away to the much smaller and wayyyyyy creepier Santuario di San Bernardino alle Ossa, its tiny chapel covered from floor to ceiling in human skulls and bones!!
By far and away, this is a man’s town…for clothing. While French women are the most elegant in Europe (slight bias here), it is the Milanese men that put all other males to shame. They are just so damn good-looking and impeccably groomed I often stare at them with a mixture of bitter envy and fawning admiration. But where to go to look as good as Alireza Niroomand and his brethren of sartorial savants? Two spots: for everything visible to the naked eye, look no further than Mariano Rubinacci. One layer deep, for underwear and pajamas (and linens!), head to Telerie Spadari. I guarantee heads will turn when you get back to Raleigh and show up at Panera kitted out in MR.
The most manly of man-stores however is Lorenzi, where if it’s got a sharp blade and can be made for a hundred times the cost of its pedestrian rival, it can be found here. From tortoise-shell straight-edge razors to crocodile-skin gardening tools, truffle-shavers and backgammon boards, this place has it all.
And if your look is more Balenciaga than Bond, you will have to go to 10 Corso Como, the original concept store that’s still going strong thirty-three years later. From the best Japanese designers to the iconic swirly-patterned pottery, temporary art installations and quaint café, it is the cool kids’ fashion epicenter of town, a world away from the classic elegance of Via Montenapoleone.
Each spring the design world descends on Milan for Salone di Mobile, a major event showcasing the greatest new pieces from both young designers and iconic houses. Avoid going during this week as every hotel room will either be booked or cost three times more, and all the great presentations are by invitation only. But to give you a taste of what this is all about, make sure to visit Nilufar Gallery.
EATING AND DRINKING
Okay, I’m going to level with you, despite the eponymous risotto and veal cutlet, this isn’t exactly the culinary capital of Italy. HOWEVER, it’s still Italy, so it’s damn fucking good. One of my go-to spots in town is Antica Trattoria della Pesa, a simple, austere room that serves a special crispy risotto that feels like a refined predecessor to the US’ ubiquitous faux Japanese crispy rice and spicy tuna.
I would be remiss without mentioning Sant Ambroeus’ flagship outpost, the one that started it all. Come fashion week it’s a mess hall for buyers and models alike, but the rest of the year it’s simply a damn good place to get your morning coffee and pastry or your nightly cacio pepe. If you’re lucky, you may even be graced by Ali’s presence.
Here’s a little something I learned on my first visit to the city as a poor college kid: all the city’s bars, including the finest of them all, set out a smorgasbord of free delectable cocktail bites come happy hour. Before I could afford a Spritz I would sidle up to the counter for a Sprite and ingest a day’s worth of carbs on the house. The tradition continues and my favorite place to do so remains the legendary Cova. Perfect for an early-afternoon Shakerato pick-me-up (the frozen margarita of non-alcoholic espresso drinks) alongside a little panini, or a late-afternoon Prosecco (with afore-mentioned free bites). Its eternal nemesis, Marchesi, across the street on Montenapoleone, is just as good, and is the perfect spot to pick up a picnic en route to Villa Panza or beyond. A final third one that is worth mentioning, a locals-only kinda spot where you just may catch a glimpse of a member of the elusive Prada family downing an espresso and cornetti for breakfast is Pasticceria Sissi.
And then there’s the wildly popular 50s’ themed Bar Basso who originated the already passé Negroni Sbagliato. But the nice thing about Europe is that no one really gives a damn. While Americans are desperately fretting away with what the drink of this very moment is, Milanese will continue to drink what they’ve been drinking for half a century, regardless of social media.
Finally, for a younger, cooler option, Bar Paradiso will serve you up a glass of Brunello and an exceptional little plate of cold cuts along with other tasty treats. More subdued than the other options, it invariably feels more local than the rest despite their successful New York pop-ups.
And if you want to bring home the finest in Italian foods (or stock up your fridge in town), there’s only one place to go and that is Peck, their infinite choice of fresh pastas will make you dizzy, their variety of prosciuttos will make you giddy, and their wine selection will simply get you stone-cold drunk. I love this place.