When you think of Hong Kong (or at least when I think of HK), you imagine soaring towers, labyrinths of darkened alleyways, steaming dim sum carts and bootleg sneaker joints. Well, it’s got all that, but my last trip there revealed an entirely different side, rich in natural wonders from nearby islands dotted with hiking trails to Buddhist monasteries perched in lush gardens. Take my word for it, Hong Kong has it all and this list—while not fully comprehensive—is a damn good start for a few days worth of adventure. Here we go!!!

The unbeatable view from the Peninsula Hotel

HOTELS

Before we get started, it’s important to note that for the most part, the city is divided in two by a large bay. The bulk of it is on its own island (Hong Kong Island), while the other side is called Kowloon. Much like Manhattan vs. Brooklyn, the best views of the city are from “the other side”, while most of the fun things to visit are on the main island (along with 99% of all good restaurants). So where to stay? For the best views of the city stay at the Rosewood or Peninsula, though you will need to commute every day by ferry or taxi, to the main island. For the ultimate proximity to all the fun stuff, stay at the Mandarin Oriental, and for the best-appointed and designed hotel, stay at the Upper House.

Mandarin Oriental You really can’t get more centrally-located than the Mandarin, which is steps away from some of the city’s best restaurants and galleries, and a ten minute cab ride to other destinations. There are actually two branches of the hotel, an iconic mid-century one overlooking the bay with a kitschy colonial bar in it and dark wood tones all around, and a newer, wing located in the adjacent Landmark shopping mall that is a more straightforward business hotel. Steer clear of that one, you want the old school classic!

Upper House What this hotel lacks in terms of geographical convenience, it more than makes up for in its design. Just make sure to book a Harbor View room to get an incredibly soaring sense of light and space.

Shangri-La Attached to the same mall as Upper House (a recurring theme in this post!), this outpost has recently undergone renovations that feature a series of really fun suites for families with younger children. They’ve built bunk beds in tree houses and steamer ships, slides and jungle gyms in the rooms. Honestly, your kid will be in paradise, though it may be hard to then stay in any other hotel!!

Peninsula On the Kowloon side, the Peninsula is the OG Hong Kong luxury hotel, and boasts unparalleled views of the city. It’s dim sum restaurant is one of the fanciest and most delicious in town and the airport pickup by Rolls-Royce is the most baller way to start your trip. And while I enjoy the $5 boat ride across the bay, they can arrange a helicopter transfer for you from their rooftop. Siiiiickkkk…

SIGHTS

The Star Ferry At one time this was the only way to commute between the city’s two central hubs (a tunnel has since been built), and while some continue to use it daily, it now serves mostly as the best way to spend a few bucks and get a great view of the harbor. To note: there is an upper and lower deck, a couple dollars’ difference in price. Upstairs has the best views while downstairs has the best people-watching. It’s win-win. Also, on the Kowloon side there’s a great little coffee stand (with a “%” logo) at the top of the stairs to get a latte to go along with the ride.

The Central-Mid-Levels Escalators An equally iconic and even more surreal mode of transportation are the mid-level escalators, a series of outdoor people movers that whisk you from the commercial bottom of the city to the residential “mid-level” neighborhood. You can jump on or off at any time to discover coffeeshops, art galleries and more, but beware the escalators are one-way only so you’ll need to walk down whatever you ride up!

Man Mo Temple A few blocks from the escalators is the Man Mo Temple. There are dozens (if not hundreds?) of local neighborhood temples around the city but I’m particularly fond of this one, perhaps because it honors both the Chinese folk God of Literature (Man Tai), and the God of Martial Arts, Mo Tai. The air is thick with incense and the room glows with the flames of countless candles lit by locals, wishing for everything ranging from good health to solid exam grades (no joke!).

Tsz Shan Monastery This one is really off the beaten path, about a forty minute taxi ride from town, but as the soaring skyscrapers fade off in the distance, you are soon greeted with bucolic greenery and a giant, breath-taking white Buddha. Beware, this is one of the only places in Hong Kong where you MUST reserve your visiting time (well in advance). Furthermore, plan on booking an uber for the ride back ahead of time as the remote location takes a while for taxis to reach.

Villain Hitters Continuing with the classic hits (pun intended), make your way under Causeway Bay to find the faintly mystical, voodoo-related world of the Villain Hitters, a cluster of elderly women who—when given the name of your sworn enemy—will then proceed to violently swat a tattered shoe against a brick in the hopes of causing said person great harm. The whole affair lasts about eight minutes and costs about $5. To note: results are not guaranteed, as my son eventually discovered when he gave his French teacher’s name and returned to school two weeks later and found her to be alive and well. Alas…

Victoria Peak Tram Ride The last bit of touristy chicanery, this is a fun way to get all the way up (or down…or both) to the top of HK and look around. Yes, there’s a God-awful mall with terrible food and little else, but the view is breathtaking and it’s a fun place to go a bit tipsy after dinner on one of the steepest trams I’ve ever seen. On the way down make sure to fight your way to the front and get the very first row of the tram for the best view down.

M+Museum On a more high-brow note, the city’s newest contemporary art center is a must-visit. On the far-flung outskirts of Kowloon, its proximity to the water allows for great views and the galleries are packed with exceptional; shows. There’s terrific dining available as well (from low-fi soft-serve ice cream to formal multi-coursed tasting meals).

The Shop House Over the past fifteen years Hong Kong has become a fixture of the contemporary art circuit, hosting annual editions of Art Basel and landing flagship outposts of the worlds biggest galleries (Gagosian, Zwirner, Hauser&Wirth, etc…). You should definitely see what’s on view at these places while you’re here, but also make sure to check out this local up-and comer, slightly off the beaten path in a quaint neighborhood that feels like the city’s answer to the West Village. There’s a great breakfast stall a block away (Ping Kee, see below), and a few streets’ worth of stores to check out…

Towers of steaming tastiness at Lin Heung Law

BITES

Lin Heung Lau Our first meal off the plane, this place is a shit-show in the best possible sense. Don’t be turned off by the line that snakes around the block, it moves fast. Don’t be turned off when you say you are a party of three and they direct you to a table that already has four strangers sitting at it. Instead, focus on gorging yourself with some of the best dim sum in town. It’s a true five-ringed circus, with ladies pushing trolley carts around non-stop, each with their own unique confections, while two other stations dotting the eatery have umpteen other offerings. One of the best things on the menu is a steamed bun with a piping-hot sweet egg custard that explodes onto your fingers, hands, clothes, and beyond. This spot is the best possible way to dive headfirst into the city. The ultra-fancy answer to this place is Spring Moon in the Peninsula Hotel. As there are very few tasty options in Kowloon, if you’re on that side of the bay for the day, Spring Moon is a perfect place to take a break (their high tea is pretty great too).

Kau Kee Food Cafe One of my favorite places in Hong Kong, this down-and-dirty noodle joint in the heart of the city serves one of the fastest meals around: you’ll be in and out in under twenty minutes. The menu is extensive but the only thing to get is the noodles with beef brisket in broth. Absolute heaven. The total lack of online presence means you know the place is solid gold. Cash only!!

Ping Kee A humble little street stall, there are thousands of these in the city, but as a tourist you never know if you’re going to land in the right one. Well…this is one of the right ones. A great way to start your day with a simple bowl of noodles and a fried egg, it’s a stone’s throw from the Shop House art gallery.

Cheung Hin Coffee Shop A great local breakfast and lunch spot with iconic pineapple buns (that don’t contain pineapple), egg and cheese sandwiches, milk tea (another HK staple) and in the afternoons, exceptional french toast.

Pang’s Kitchen Just down the street from Cheung Hin is this Michelin-starred traditional Cantonese spot. It’s got all the hits with great little twists, like a sweet-and-sour pork studded with fresh strawberries. The razor clams are exceptional, the clay pot rice with crab, honestly it’s nothing but bangers. Just ask the incredibly friendly owner to steer you right.

Yardbird Not to be confused with the US chain, this spot is a chef’s favorite where entire chickens are broken down into 32 unique parts and then grilled yakitori-style. You can get gizzards and feet, breasts and oysters, each one prepared in a unique fashion. Chase it down with a great cocktail and amazing sides (like the KFC-Korean Fried Cauliflower). And don’t let the laid-back vibe fool you, this is a spot you’ll need to book in advance.

Big JJ Seafood Hot Pot Sadly didn’t have time to make it here but weekend hot pots are a big tradition in Hong Kong and everyone pointed us in the direction of this local favorite.

The Chairman When we went on their website, bold letters announced that all reservations were taken for the subsequent three months. When we talked to locals about where to go, everyone was like “well, obviously The Chairman…if you can get in…”. Through kind friends and a lot of favors pulled we scored a table at the city’s version of Blue Hill and while it was a very good meal, between you and me, there are a million other places in this city that are just as good and don’t require a half-year’s wait to get in. Interestingly enough, one of the city’s other big-ticket restaurants, Wing (#1 in all of Asia on that list), is in the same nondescript office building, a few floors up.

HIKES

By far my favorite discovery this time around was all the nature the city had to offer. There are dozens of hikes to be done on Hong Kong Island but if you have your hotel charter a boat for the day (or figure out the ferry system), you can have some grand adventures on the more remote islands that dot the region. The only one I can vouch for is Lamma Island, a small fishing colony about fifteen minutes away from the city, that offers a maze of trails (albeit paved in concrete), some descending on beautiful, swimmable beaches.

Back on the main island, Dragon’s Back Trail is one of the city’s most famous walks, with sprawling views of the metropolis.

Twin Peaks in Tai Tam Reservoir is nearby and offers you the chance to visit Repulse Bay afterwards, the city’s equivalent of Beverly Hills/a more elegant version of The Grove, with a few cool shops (like Human Made) and little cafes (Parabolica).

SHOPPING

The Malls - While there is nothing more fun than racing up to third floors of run-down office buildings in search of vintage cameras, Hong Kong is definitely anchored by massive, gleaming, all-encompassing shopping malls. In Kowloon K11 claims to be the first contemporary art mall in the world (with plenty of retail shopping to pay the rent of course), while on the main island Pacific Place (home of Upper House and Shangri-La hotels) and Landmark are the two best of the best. While most of these places feature endless incarnations of Vuitton and Balenciaga, they also offer unique little surprises. The supermarket tucked away in Pacific Place’s Great Food Hall is a real thrill to stroll through while the restaurant selection in Landmark is truly awesome (we had a great lunch and China Tang).

Sam’s Tailor - You’ve probably heard countless yarns of friends coming back from Hong Kong with custom suits for the price of a paper clip on Far Fetch. Well, Sam The Tailor in Kowloon is one of the OG spots that started the tradition. From world leaders to World Cup stars, everyone has passed through these doors. But with time, this tourist destination has fallen prey to its success and locals bemoan that it’s not what it once was. Enter Ascot Chang, the Charvet of HK. A bit pricey, but a whole lot classier, you’ll feel like you truly belong in that Peninsula Rolls Royce as you’re shuttled back to the airport.

Good Spring Co. Whether you’re looking for a tea to soothe the soul or an ancient Eastern elixir to soothe a sore back, this spot’s got what you want.

If you love camera hunting as much as I do, you’ll have the time of your life in Hong Kong. Many of the stores are in hidden mini-malls on second floors of crumbling office buildings, all of them require a solid spine when it comes to bargaining, and almost every place has an as-is policy so if you get back home and that Leica M6 you scored doesn’t work, you’re SOL. But don’t be put off, most places are really on the up-and-up, especially the following (some of which are just stands in bigger malls): David Chan, All Good Friend, Sim City, Sunrise Pro Photofinishing.

HK MY WAY

LECH’S GO BABY!!!