A ski trip at the end of the world
Okay, this is the year you plan that big once-in-a-lifetime trip. And THIS IS THE TRIP!!!
Yes, there’s great powder in the Rockies, and yeah there’s incredibly picturesque villages to explore in the Alps, but nothing is quite like the spell-binding experience of skiing through bamboo reeds in Hokkaido. And for those living out West, it’s closer than a trip to Europe while for those in Europe, well…it’s about as far as Colorado!
There are several resorts to choose from but unless your Japanese is solid and your comfort of driving on the opposite side of the road is strong, I’d stick with Niseko, the most Western-friendly of all the domains.
The altitude here is negligible, (the base is at 300m and the top of the mountain a mere 1000m higher) and the slopes are not particularly challenging, but what the area lacks in variety it makes up for in quality. There is so much snow here, and of the finest, driest variety, that the mountain does not even have snow making machines on standby. Every day brings the most ethereal fresh powders, and on the rare days when it doesn’t snow, everyone profusely apologies to you, as if the shortcoming were personally their fault.
The only downside to this whole amazing adventure is that things book up FAST and they take it very seriously. How serious you ask? Well, not only do restaurants open reservations up to six months in advance (namely one exceptional soba spot), but when making your reservation six months out, they request that you choose what you will be eating a half a year later!!!! All I can say is that I suppose it takes some of the stress out of deciding what to do last-minute?
The best snow of the year is apparently end of January but when we went last year for the new year we were spoiled with powder up to our thighs. So start planning now, start figuring out your meals in March, and get this end-of-2024 special holiday booked before you head off for spring break!
HOTELS
There are three different options for hotels that are all terrific and simply depend on what you hope to get out of the vacation. Niseko differs from the typical resort where a series of mountains interconnect to create one domain. Here, a single mountain soars upwards, with four different bases from which to access it.
The Park Hyatt is one of these access points. The plus-side is that this is the only hotel with ski in-out. A ski valet brings your skis out to the front door, plops them down, and you glide a hundred meters to a lift that whisks you up to the center of the trails. At the end of the day you avoid the deluge of masses of skiers taking a final run since this access point only services the hotel. On the downside, the hotel is REMOTE, meaning there is no strolling to town. It is also a massive, sprawling affair with residences, a dozen restaurants and more, none of it feeling particularly Japanese in spirit. But man, that convenience—and the tasty, global breakfast buffet—more than makes up for it. Two more quick tips on the place: try to get a room with a built-in onsen for the best apres-ski treat and lastly, no matter how appealing their restaurant menus may look online, they all have the charm of Vegas casino dining. Skip them and instead book taxis (well in advance of course) to take you to some of the spots in and around town. There is also a free hotel shuttle to take you to certain spots…that must be booked ahead of time…
In the center of the main town of Niseko is the Setsu Hotel, barely a year old. Friends of our stayed there and despite having to rely on a shuttle bus to take you to the slopes (or a five minute walk), they loved it. Best of all, it features the most special sushi experience around, Sushi Kato Inori. You won’t want to miss this one, it was by far the best meal we had in Niseko. You’re also in the center of town which makes it ideal for shopping in the afternoon and drinks in the evening.
Lastly, for those that want to experience the winter wonderland rather than skiing specifically, there is the Zaborin ryokan, a breathtaking space that feels right out of AD magazine. A massive sense of scale conceived for just a dozen or so rooms twenty minutes away from the noise of the town. Yes, there is a shuttle to take you to the slopes but it’s far from convenient, and all the rates are half-board which means you’ll be eating their exceptional 2 hour, 38-course dinners every night. Not the worst thing in the world, but more geared towards someone in search of peaceful solitude rather than ski adventure. At the very least go for a drink one evening.
SKIING
I would recommend booking at least 1-2 days of ski lessons at the beginning just to get a lay of the land of all the slopes as it can be a bit confusing/disorienting, esp. since the very top is very often fogged/snowed in. Also, certain key slopes that link you from one base/access point to another side of the mountain close before the end of the day and you can get stranded miles away from your hotel. As with all else, book these guides wayyyyyy in advance (like July/August). A lot of the crowd at the resort comes from Australia and New Zealand, so make sure when booking a guide to ask for someone who is proficient in English.
There are unfortunately about 12 different ski schools and not all of them can pick you up at your hotel so email the concierge and insist on a guide that can pick you up. Otherwise you risk having to take a shuttle or taxi to the other side of the mountain and it’s a pain in the ass (because each school is located at a different base/access point).
The teachers from NISS allow you to go through chairlift fast pass lanes on the Hanazono (aka Park Hyatt) side while Go Snow instructors have a lane on the Hirafu side (Setsu Hotel side). BEWARE: if you like skiing off-piste, there are other schools that specialize in this and it is one of the highlights of the region. NISS instructors won’t take you to the backcountry “gates”. For that experience I strongly recommend the guides at Pro Peak.
If you looove hardcore backcountry skiing, book a guide at the Powder Company. But beware, this is serious stuff, hiking up the mountains yourself with skis on your back, wearing avalanche detection packs, etc…
If staying at the Park Hyatt and renting the fanciest skis, Hanazono 308 will deliver them directly to the ski valet at the hotel to fit them for you, otherwise you will need to walk 2 minutes to the ski rental shop to bring them back. Either way, you can book online in advance.
EATING+DRINKING
As we began planning our trip, we fantasized of magical bowls of steaming lunchtime-ramen being offered up in quaint chalets dotting the mountain. Alas, we were wrong. The options are scant for meals and all of them are factory-like cafeterias with abysmal selections of fried food. But there is one exception, and it is absolutely perfect. Bo-yo-so is tucked away between two slopes, easily missed the first or second time you fly by, though the lines that begin to form around noon draw the eye towards this ramshackle hut that dispenses endless traditional Japanese fare. Our favorite was the bowl of steaming rice generously covered in salmon roe. There’s no reservations here and folks hover over the tables waiting to pounce on a free seat when it avails itself. I recommend beating the rush and going early, around 11:30, so that you then have the slopes to yourself come midday. Beware, this place is CASH ONLY.
Rakuichi is the soba spot I mentioned before that gets booked up for the season sometime around September or October so make sure to snag a seat here early on.
Somoza is a stunning dining experience in an old farm, attached to a small gallery and little shop that offers incredible ceramics at half the price of that curated boutique in Williamsburg you love. The reservation process here is equally challenging as spots are first offered to guests staying in the collection of villas on the property, but persistence is key! Dinner involves a guided tour by the owner through his beautiful collection of local art, followed by a meal that weaves between French gastronomy and Japanese tradition.
Sushi Kato Inori in the Setsu Hotel is the ultimate homage to Hokkaido’s unparalleled seafood. There is another Kato Inori in town, but the intimacy of this six-seat spot is just perfection.
Gyu One of the most awesome apres-ski spots (or bars) I have ever been to, anywhere. The entrance is discretely marked by a 1950s refrigerator door set in a wall on a small side street. But much like Narnia, once you duck your head in through the fridge door you enter a warm, speak-easy-feeling space complete with an overwhelming selection of records being attended to by the owner/bartender. The twelve page menu is naively hand-drawn with Wes Anderson-like charm and the drinks are top-notch. Outstanding.
Check out the Zaborin ryokan for a drink and a visit. I’m not sure if you can eat there if you’re not staying there but try, as it looks bonkers.
Raku is a cool little iza-kaya for small dinner bites/drinks
We weren’t able to get into The Barn, but it looks pretty solid for Western-style fare.
And if you feel overwhelmed by too much Japanese food and are craving the Alps, hit up some raclette at Alpinist.
Crab is a specialty in the region and for a taste of the best from the Sapporo fish market, head over to Enzo Seafood. This isn’t a restaurant but rather a market in town, and they will prepare the crab (along with a plethora of sushi) to-go.
In the center of town is a cute collection of food trucks. I can’t vouch for the quality of any of them but it’s worth taking a look.
Lastly, if you’re craving a lovely latte more than green tea to fight the jet lag, make sure to check out the small Pierre Cardin-like structure that houses the Japanese mini-chain %Arabica.
ADVENTURES BEYOND
As I mentioned earlier, there are a slew of other resorts around the region, and if you feel like an adventure, ring up the folks at Powder Company who can guide you to these more remote mountains.
The Takahashi Farm is a beautiful dairy (Hokkaido is renown for their milk), where you can see farmers milk cows by hand, and pick up tasty banana milk shakes and ice cream to go.
Saving the best for last, you will most likely be flying in/out of Sapporo with a car arranged by the hotel then driving you the two hours to Niseko. On your return, plan on leaving a few hours early and take a detour to visit Tadao Ando’s awe-inspiring Buddha shrine at the Makomanai Takino Cemetery. The less said the better, except to say that it was the highlight of our trip. And oddly enough, in the same park as the shrine is this ersatz collection of Easter Island figures…can’t really explain that.
If you do carve out some additional time before the flight home, also make sure to visit Sapporo’s fish market and get in one last great snow crab and salmon roe meal at a sushi stall in the market, or visit the quirky Museum of Salmon, Noguchi Park, Contemporary Art Museum, and Art Park.
